Cruz del Palmar: The world’s greatest travel bargain?
By Robert de Gast, July 28, 2006

Normally, my column appears in the photography section, so I never thought I would be giving a bus schedule, but here it is:

From San Miguel to Cruz del Palmar, daily:
8am; 11:30am; 2:30pm; 5:20pm
From Cruz del Palmar to San Miguel, daily:
6:30am; 9:30am; 1pm; 4pm; 6:30pm

So, where is Cruz del Palmar, and why would one want to go there? Cruz del Palmar, with a population of about a thousand souls, is the third largest community in the municipio, the county, of San Miguel, after San Miguel proper and Los Rodriguez. As the crow flies, it is about six miles from San Miguel. As the bus rattles, it’s about twice as long, and takes about an hour. But the price is right: eight pesos. You’ll cross several streams, get to see miles of countryside, and if you pay attention, a half dozen chapels, some abandoned.

For photographers without a car, it is a chance to experience the campo around our fair city and visit a typical community. The bus leaves from the Calzada de la Luz, between Animas and Loreto, and it leaves en punto, right on time, just like the bullfight.

And at times the bucking of the bus will remind you of a bullfight. Part of the trip is made on a paved road, and part on an abandoned railroad track, but the rest of the voyage is made, if not on the road from hell, then on the road from purgatory. Although the driver knows every rut, dimple, and tope, you won’t be able to read, and taking pictures from the moving bus is nearly impossible, although the windows can be opened and the scenery, in places, is interesting. Except for the earliest and latest buses, they are usually crowded with old men wearing hats, young women wearing ponytails, and beautiful children wearing smiles. 

If you want to make pictures during the trip, in the bus or from the bus (the windows slide open), be sure to choose the highest possible shutter speed by selecting “S” or “Tv” (for “time value”) or that funny little icon that looks like a running man on some cameras to ensure that the bounce from the bus won’t translate into blurry photographs. This is when you begin to think you should have bought that camera with the image stabilization option.

Looking at the bus schedule, it becomes clear that if you miss the return bus you’ll have a three-hour wait on your hands, something you probably won’t want to consider.

Still, in the half hour you’ll have before the bus turns around you can walk around and take pictures. The village is small and poor, has a couple of stores and friendly people. The parish church is beautiful and usually open. Don’t miss the 14 stone benches in the atrium of the church, which are decorated in mysterious, and colorful, Aztec symbols. If the church is not open, a few pesos for the caretaker, who is never far from his job, will solve the problem. But watch the clock and be sure to tell the driver that you intend to ride back with him! 

Cruz del Palmar is not the only bus destination available from San Miguel. Buses go to or near virtually every one of the hundreds of pueblos, none more than a dozen miles from Centro.

Some leave from the Calzada de la Luz (to Atotonilco, always called Santuario; Las Cañas; Pueblo Viejo; and others); some from El Puente de Guanajuato, near the end of calle Canal (to Cieneguita or Cabras); or from Puente Umarán, the street in front of the Ignacio Ramírez Market to (Santas Marias or Corral de Piedras). It pays to get the latest schedule from the drivers. Take the bus and leave the driving to…them.

Robert de Gast leads photography workshops and offers short, private tutorials. He can be reached at 152-7396 or via email: robertdegast@hotmail.com.