Capital Comments
By Jim Johnston
Art abounds in DF
| Domenicus Theotokopoulus, El Greco
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Visiting Mexico City to see art can be a daunting affair—according to Wikipedia there are more than 160 museums to choose from. My two standard tips for art lovers in Mexico City are to buy a copy of the weekly magazine Tiempo Libre (it comes out each Thursday—see listings under museos), and to check out the website www.arte-mexico.com (they also publish a free map available at many galleries).
Even after looking at these lists of mysteriously named places exhibiting artists you may never have heard of, how does one choose? Over the years I’ve developed my own strategy. First I look for the names of any artists I already know and like, but it’s rare I find one. So then I look for certain venues that have a proven track record of high quality shows. Here are some places in the Centro Histórico where you’re most likely to find interesting shows.
My favorite museum in all of Mexico City is the Antiguo Colegio de San Ildefonso (Justo Sierra 19, just behind the Templo Mayor). Founded in 1588 as a Jesuit seminary, the massive building impresses all who enter, and murals by Diego Rivera and David Alfaro Siqueiros are found inside. Over the past several years, under the guidance of director Paloma Porraz Fraser, the museum has presented some of the best exhibitions in this city.
The current show, featuring British sculptor Antony Gormley, is one of the most satisfying I’ve seen in years. The work is mostly figurative, much of it done in metal, with a final room filled with works on paper. In this day of “blockbuster” shows with hundreds of works on display, this was a rare moment when I wish there had been more. The sculptures are beautifully installed, mostly one piece per room, creating a dynamic interplay between art and architecture.
The first room has one flattened figure lying facedown on the floor—a puffy, tragic-comical image, as though Gumby had taken a swan dive from the roof. A passage lined with thousands of slices of bread dipped in wax leads you to more figurative works, from elegantly tribal figures, molecular poodles, and headless bodies dangling from the ceiling. Most impressive was a stunningly lit, single mummy-like steel figure entitled You, and an architectural installation entitled Breathing Room that took my breath away (even on the second visit). The museum is open every day except Monday. Entry fee is 45 pesos, and is free on Tuesdays. The show is on through December.
On the north side of Alameda Park (Hidalgo 45) you’ll find the Museo Franz Mayer, which specializes in decorative arts. This is another masterpiece of colonial architecture, with perhaps the most beautiful courtyard in all of Mexico City where you can sit and have coffee and a snack.
An excellent permanent collection of decorative arts is excellent, with furniture, ceramics, textiles, church vestments and paintings from the colonial period. They also mount changing exhibitions. The current show, “300% Diseño Español,” features 100 chairs, 100 lamps and 100 posters from the past 100 years. It’s one of the best shows I’ve seen here in a while (I admit I skipped the last one on the History of Barbie, which had lines around the block). Admission is 45 pesos, free on Tuesdays. The show runs until November 8.
Right next door to the Franz Mayer is the small Museo de la Estampa, which specializes in printmaking. As a printmaker myself, I always check out their changing exhibits, which range from so-so to spectacular. With an entry fee of only 15 pesos, it’s usually worth a look though.
Mexico City lacks a world-class museum of European art, so, the El Greco exhibit currently at the Palacio de Bellas Artes is something not to be missed. The show includes original works by El Greco and some of his followers, mostly borrowed from Spanish museums.
If you only know this artist’s work from reproductions in books, seeing the actual pieces will be a revelation. The drawing, color and light in his paintings vibrate, shimmer and twitter, as though they were ready to jump off the canvas, heaven-bound. The brushwork looks fast and alive (I would love to have seen him at work). Almost all of the paintings are of religious subjects, some of them done by workshop assistants. El Greco was an extremely successful businessman with lots of workers who helped him meet the great demand for his work. Those painted by the artist himself have a distinctive energy. A painting of Sta. Verónica holding a cloth with the miraculous image of Christ has a hushed, otherworldly psychological depth. An unfinished portrait of San Mateo gives a tempting hint at to how he built his images. The show runs through November. Admission is 35 pesos, free on Sundays (closed Mondays).
Other places where you’re likely to encounter something interesting are the Museo de la Ciudad (Pino Suarez 30—don’t miss the surprising studio of Joaquín Clausell upstairs), The Palacio de Iturbide (Banamex Collection, Madero 17), and the Museo de Arte Popular (at the corner of Independencia and Revillagigedo).
The city paid a high price during the influenza scare by shutting down businesses and schools. Many museums are still struggling to recover from that time. Tourism officials are now hard at work making the city more tourist-friendly. A new service of bicycle taxis can now be seen around town—look for the funny shaped green things (see photo) found around major tourist sites in the Centro. Most rides will cost you around 30 pesos (negotiate a price before you hop on). It is by far the most delightful way to get around.
Jim Johnston, a ten-year resident of San Miguel, now lives in Mexico City. He is author of Mexico City: an Opinionated Guide for the Curious Traveller.
His blog is www.mexicocitydf.blogspot.com.
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