Springtime in Germany, Part 2
By Judy Newell


Jim and Judy Newell boarded the river boat MS Amadagio in Budapest and cruised the Danube past the capitals, villages, fortresses and abbeys of Hungary, Slovakia, Austria and Germany. Europe by river vessel juxtaposes a nineteenth-century style of life with the modernity of vibrant cities. With no hassles from airports, traffic or packing, they enjoyed each day on a floating hotel, with shore excursions in each port and local entertainers who came aboard in the evenings.

Vienna, Austria

Austria’s capital was our next stop. Vienna is a city that requires a week—or a lifetime—to explore. Wien, as it’s known in German, is a truly elegant and grand city and one of Europe’s best-loved capitals.

Once the seat of the mighty Habsburg Empire and home to Strauss, Brahms, Beethoven, Haydn, and Mozart, the “City of Music” blends ornate Baroque architecture with an irresistible musical heritage—you can almost hear the strains of classical music as you stroll its streets.

Vienna has much to offer: the lavish Hofburg Palace, the impressive Vienna Opera House, monumental buildings along the famous Ringstrasse and the awe-inspiring Gothic architecture of twelfth-century St. Stephen’s Cathedral. You do not rush through Vienna; you waltz, taking your time to savor each classic sight and sound.

Vienna—which boasts over a hundred museums—stuns you with its splendid Baroque palaces and the Viennese traditional joie de vivre. Sachertorte, Vienna’s famous chocolate cake, beckoned us from the Sacher Hotel and Apfelstrudel (apple strudel) tempted us from every pastry shop and café.

Horse-drawn Fiaker carriage rides added an atmospheric touch, handled by elegantly costumed drivers. And you could often spot the famous Ferris wheel, called the Riesenrad, which was featured in the film The Third Man.

We took a walking tour of Imperial Vienna, whose historic district is a World Heritage site. From St. Stephen’s Cathedral, the focal point of the city, we wandered down the main pedestrian streets to Hofburg Imperial Palace, home to Austria’s rulers since the thirteenth century and site of the famous National Library. Along the way we passed Figarohaus, where Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart lived.

At Hofburg, the winter palace of the Habsburgs for over 600 years, we toured the Imperial Apartments and the Sisi Museum, homage to the enchanting Sisi—the unconventional Empress Elizabeth, who married Emperor Franz Joseph in 1853 when she was 16.

She was the greatest beauty of her day and kept her 20-inch waist throughout her life with daily gymnastics, sports and obsessive dieting—unheard-of activities for a cultivated woman in her day. She spent up to three hours a day having her ankle-length hair coiffed, while her equerry read to her in Greek.

Her only son Archduke Rudolf committed suicide in 1889 on the royal estate at Mayerling, along with his 17-year-old mistress, when they were denied the possibility of marriage. After this tragedy, Sisi spent the rest of her life in seclusion, traveling and writing poetry.

The distinguished Spanish Riding School of Vienna is located in the Hofburg’s indoor riding ring, where white Lipizzan stallions are trained to walk and dance with a delicacy that ballerinas might envy. You can observe a daily training session of the riders and their Lippizzaners in the Baroque ambience, where the 430-year-old traditions cultivate classical equitation of the haute école.

Also in the Palace, the Vienna Boy’s Choir sings Mass in the Burgkapelle (Royal Chapel) every Sunday morning and you can view secular and ecclesiastical treasures in the Schatzkammer (Imperial Treasury).

Schonbrunn Palace, the exquisite summer residence of the Habsburg Emperors, was offered as an optional afternoon tour. Located on the outskirts of modern Vienna, it was built to rival Versailles and is considered one of the most beautiful Baroque palaces in Europe.

The royal residence of 1441 rooms and halls was the center of the courtly and political life. Guided tours are offered of the State Apartments and the expansive formal gardens. This breathtaking palace is best known for its Hall of Mirrors—where Mozart once played—and the spectacular ceiling frescoes of its Great Gallery. Today, the palace is part of UNESCO’s cultural heritage due to its historic importance, unique grounds and splendid furnishings.

Would a stay in Vienna be the same if you didn’t listen to the “Blue Danube Waltz” or the “Radetzky March”? No visit would be complete without attending one of the city’s many musical venues that celebrate Mozart and Strauss, two of Vienna’s favorite former inhabitants. We spent an unforgettable evening at Vienna’s beautiful Palais Auersperg, where the Vienna Residence Orchestra presented a private concert of works by Mozart and Strauss.

Dürnstein, Austria

Leaving the big cities behind, we entered the picturesque countryside of Austria. In the morning we visited the pretty little Baroque town of Dürnstein, one of the most popular Wachau tourist destinations.

Above the town are the ruins of Kuenringer Castle, where England’s King Richard the Lionhearted was imprisoned for ransom during the Crusades.

Dürnstein is in the heart of the Wachau Valley, one of the most beautiful winemaking regions in Austria. It is surrounded by vineyards and orchards and famous for its apricot brandy and white wines. Wachau Valley has been declared a World Heritage site for its well-preserved medieval landscapes.

Dürnstein is a tiny romantic village, which can be explored only on foot. It has well-kept burgher houses from the sixteenth through the eighteenth centuries and the remains of a fourteenth-century convent. The blue tower of Stiftskirche, the former eighteenth-century convent church, is one of the most beautiful Baroque-era towers in Austria and the landmark of the city.

One of the most charming small five-star hotels that I saw on this trip was the Hotel Schloss Dürnstein. It was built in 1630 as a Renaissance residence of the local count and has a unique restaurant terrace overlooking the most scenic stretch of the Danube.


Melk, Austria

In the afternoon we sampled world-class Reislings and Gruner Veltliners as we cruised to Melk, passing rich vineyards and fairytale castles and villages. Some of the passengers rode along the bike trail next to the Danube—and they arrived before the ship.

Melk Abbey has been an important spiritual and cultural center in Austria for over 1,000 years. The magnificent hilltop abbey dominates the town and is one of Europe’s largest monasteries. Since 1089, Benedictine monks have continuously lived and worked in the monastery.

Extensive restorations of the splendid Baroque buildings have been carried out (another World Heritage site) and Stift Melk is one of Europe’s greatest cultural heritage treasures. It is best known for its Baroque church and the world famous library that inspired Umberto Eco to write his book The Name of the Rose.

We enjoyed a wine growers’ dinner that night and wonderful violin music in the Lounge. Just like on the big cruise ships, in case you needed even more food between meals, there was a late morning snack, afternoon drinks and local delicacies on deck, and late night snacks served in the lounge.


Linz, Austria

Linz, Austria’s third-largest town, is an important industrial town and busy river port. It is, along with Vilnius in Lithuania, this year’s European “Capital of Culture,” although I could not understand why. It has a concentration of heavy industry, including steel mills and chemical manufacturers, and at the end of World War II, it was the border between the Soviets and the Allies. Said simply, it lacked the charm of previously visited cities.

We took a morning guided walk through the old town (Alstradt) with its Baroque main square, pastel-colored buildings from the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries, an imposing Rathaus (city hall), a 20-meter-high marble Plague Column and the neo-Gothic New Cathedral, the largest church of Austria. It’s also famous for Linzer Torte.

In the afternoon passengers were offered two options—a tour to the foot of the Alps to the pretty town of Gmunden on Lake Traun, a pleasant scenic destination—or a journey to the UNESCO-protected city of Cesky Krumlov in the nearby Czech Republic. We opted for Cesky Krumlov, also known as “Little Prague.”

Cesky Krumlov, Czech Republic

The ancient castle complex of Cesky Krumlov and its exquisitely preserved medieval center was perhaps the most stunning sight on our trip. It is an outstanding example of a small, Central European medieval town.

Built in the thirteenth century at the ford of a river, the castle is situated on a rocky promontory with spectacular views of the Old Town below. The castle has 40 buildings and palaces, gardens, courtyards and a moat with resident bears. The Castle Baroque Theatre, completed in 1766, has its original stage machinery, scenery and props and is one of only a few such court theaters that still exist.

The castle took over six centuries to complete and Old Town has over 300 protected medieval buildings. But it’s not Disneyland—real people live here, push baby prams over the cobblestone streets and carry their market produce home in string bags. We relaxed with a cold Pilsner on the patio of a home from the 1500s, overlooking the rushing river, joined by happy Bohemians lingering over lunch.

It was a magical ending to our trip. Go to Cesky Krumlov and spend a few days to fully appreciate the town without rushing. Taking a night stroll along the quiet streets with the lit-up castle towering over the town will be a bonus.

That evening we had an Austrian dinner aboard: Pichelsteiner, a stew with beef, potatoes and vegetables. Then a wonderful music group from Salzburg entertained us in the Lounge with a medley from The Sound of Music. We cruised overnight to Passau, in Bavaria, Germany.


Passau, Germany

We had a quiet morning walk in Passau. Most everything was closed as it was Good Friday and Bavaria is traditionally a Catholic stronghold. Passau, known as “the Town of Three Rivers,” is the frontier between Germany and Austria and a city of graceful arcades and cobblestone streets, renowned for its lovely stained glass.

The Old Town has Baroque churches, patrician houses, picturesque lanes and squares and Altes Rathaus, the old town hall with fifteenth-century origins, murals on the façade and a glockenspiel in the tower. St. Stephan’s Cathedral houses the world’s largest church organ with more than 18,000 pipes and four carillons.

It was a lovely little town but frankly, by this time, the medieval towns were all starting to blend together.



Vilshofen, Germany

During a Bavarian lunch we sailed to Vilshofen, a small riverside village that prides itself on its beers. Vilshofen has a beer festival every year, a much smaller version of the one in Munich, and elects a Beer Queen. That evening the Beer Queen, Bürgermeister and Brewmeister of Vilshofen came aboard, along with a polka band, for a true Bavarian celebration.

We disembarked the ship the next morning and took a train back to Munich. Many of the Amadagio’s passengers elected a three-day extension offered by the cruise line to the “Golden City” of Prague.

Central Europe’s warm spring and summers make it an ideal destination—not only rich in memorable experiences but also very affordable. You can combine medieval history, exciting cities, great shopping, relaxing spa breaks, river cruises and top-notch gastronomy—all of excellent quality at reasonable prices.

My final impressions of our journey? I would recommend river cruising to everyone. It is a relaxing, enjoyable and hassle-free way to explore Europe. You can see some of the world’s most beautiful places from the privacy of your stateroom, on walking tours or by bike. The small size of the ships creates friendships with other passengers and augments the warm hospitality of the ship’s cruise director, hotel and dining staff.

We enjoyed both sightseeing tours and time for our own exploration. It’s a simple way to travel with plenty of time to unwind. I’m looking forward to taking other river cruises in Europe, Russia and the latest of AMA Waterways destinations—a 15-day cruise tour to Vietnam, Cambodia and the riches of the Mekong. 


Judy Newell heads the travel company Perfect Journeys that specializes in discounted rates for airfare, hotels, tours and cruises worldwide, as well as luxury and adventure travel. Contact her with comments or suggestions at JudyNewell_03@msn.com  or go to her website www.PerfectJourneys.net.  

Travel News You Can Use
By Judy Newell

Mexico Travel News

Reactivating tourism 

President Felipe Calderón announced on May 8 that he will enact extraordinary fiscal measures to achieve a fast reactivation for the country’s tourism industry. The government’s financial stimulus plan adds up to 17.4 billion pesos (US$1.3 billion). Tourism is Mexico’s third largest source of revenue.

The swine flu virus is in retreat, but the hospitality industry is still very sick, with early reports indicating a 95-percent international travel cancellation rate. Available seats on international flights have been reduced by 50 percent. Both urban and resort area hotels report occupancy rates hovering around 10 percent.

The Department of State lifted its flu-related travel alert to Mexico right after the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention lifted their travel warning. “With evidence that the flu appears to be less threatening than originally thought, Mexico is ready to welcome back all of its visitors and offer them the hospitality and services that have always distinguished us,” said Rodolfo Elizondo, Mexico’s Minister of Tourism.



International News

Berlin partying like it’s 1989 

Berlin celebrates the 20th anniversary of the fall of the Berlin Wall this year. An open-air exhibition at Alexanderplatz, May 7–November 9, will highlight the peaceful events that led to the Wall’s demise. Schoolchildren will design and install four-foot-high dominoes along the former border, to be knocked down on November 9. The last domino will fall at the Brandenburg Gate, activating a fireworks display, concerts and parties citywide. A guide to the events is at www.visitberlin.de. 

Paris celebrates 120 years of the Eiffel Tower Paris is now in celebration mode as the Old Gray Lady turns 120.

Adoring articles are running in the local press and Parisians are making plans to visit a new exhibition at city hall (Hôtel de Ville). The Gustave Eiffel: le Magicien de Fer exhibition will retrace the career and personal life of the renowned iron wiz. The show displays some of Eiffel’s other remarkable works, from the internal structure of the Statue of Liberty to the locks of the Panama Canal. The show runs May 6–August 31 and is open 10am–7pm every day but Sunday. Admission is free and crowds are expected.

Those who visit the Lady in person this summer will be treated to some new dining options. Following last year’s renovation of the gastronomic Jules Verne, the Tower has just revived and reopened a second and cheaper restaurant. Prices at 58 Tour Eiffel are still high—count on €19–31 (US$25–40) for lunch and €60–125 ($78–163) for dinner.

Budget-minders can come instead for the goûter (afternoon snack) for €20 ($26). Prices don’t include the €8 ($10) elevator up to the first floor. You can save some money and burn calories by taking the stairs for €4.50 ($6).

The cheapest and most charming food option is still a picnic on the Champs de Mars. Bring your own wine and pick up some top-notch take-away on the nearby rue Cler and rue Nicot. With baguette and fromage, this green lawn is the best seat in town for the hourly twinkle on the Tower. When the Lady bursts into sparkle at the turn of every hour, even the poutiest Parisians stop to smile.

Cuba teams with Qatar to build beach resort

Cuba and Qatar have signed an agreement to build a US$75 million, 450-room resort on a cay south of the island. The five-star Gran Paraiso (Great Paradise) resort is planned for Cayo Largo Sur. It’s a strip of white sand, coral reefs and warm, calm waters 105 miles south of Havana that’s already home to a cluster of high-rise hotels.

Tourism is Cuba’s second-largest moneymaker behind nickel exports. A record 2.35 million foreigners visited last year, mostly from Canada and Europe. Foreign arrivals are up another two percent so far this year despite the global economic slowdown.

Did You Know—Brazil Brazil shares common borders with every country in South America except Ecuador and Chile.

More Brazilians have televisions than refrigerators in their homes. Brazilian soap operas—viewed nightly by tens of millions of people across the country—are exported to 130 other nations.

Americana, just outside São Paulo, is a town founded by Confederate refugees who immigrated after the US Civil War. The phone book is filled with surnames such as Lee and Jones. Once a year, the town’s boys dress up in rebel gray and the girls in long gowns, and they hold a formal ball.

The Amazon River and its tributaries account for one-fifth of the world’s freshwater.

The Pantanal (pantano means “swamp” in Portuguese) is the largest inland wetland on the planet, covering an area half the size of France.

The largest Japanese community outside of Japan and the largest Lebanese community outside of Lebanon are in São Paulo.



Airline News

AeroMéxico increases connections

AeroMéxico is increasing its domestic and international connections with 38 new daily flights between 11 cities. The airline continues to expand its international service, with new daily flights from Mexico City to Denver from December to April; twice-weekly flights between Mexico City and Las Vegas; three weekly flights between Chihuahua and Albuquerque; one daily flight between Mexico City and San Francisco; a daily flight between Mexico City and Toronto; and two daily flights between Mexico City and Montreal.



Cruise News

Carnival substitutes Mexico ports through June 15

Carnival Cruise Lines has cancelled all calls in Mexico for 16 ships previously scheduled to stop there. Itineraries for vessels that included stops in Mexico have substituted alternate ports. Guests may opt to receive a future cruise credit equal to the full amount paid for the voyage, applicable to an alternate sailing through the end of 2010. 

Sources: Mexico Tourism Board, Mexico Tourism News, The New York Times, Budget Travel, Travel Pulse Daily, Travel Relish 

Judy Newell heads the travel company Perfect Journeys that specializes in discounted rates for airfare, hotels, tours and cruises worldwide, as well as luxury and adventure travel. Contact her with comments or suggestions at judynewell_03@msn.com  or go to her website www.perfectjourneys.net.