June 19, 2009, A large beer please, By Judy Newell

If you’re in Munich, the epicenter of Bavaria’s beer lovers, these are the first words needed. Munich is intrinsically associated with Oktoberfest, but it offers much more than beer gardens.

Located within eyeshot of the snowcapped Alps, Munich is sophisticated, wealthy and elegant—a city of broad boulevards and baroque facades. It is one of Germany’s major cultural centers—only Berlin outranks it in the number of museums and theaters.

As Germany’s most popular tourist destination, Munich is likely to evoke stereotypical images: the Glockenspiel carillon in the tower of the neo-Gothic Rathaus, or city hall; the annual Oktoberfest bacchanal; and men wearing lederhosen.

But as Germany’s third-largest city celebrates its 850th birthday this year, it’s shedding its dirndls and coexisting with modern technology, industry and design. The historic center remains pleasantly intact, but you can feel a burst of innovation powered by a strong economy (companies like BMW and Siemens call Munich home) and by the global boom in contemporary design.

Just beyond the throngs of backpackers in the Marienplatz (the historic main square) and tourist staples of Altstadt (Old Town), the spires of Baroque churches soar above winding streets, and Gucci-clad shoppers crowd elegant designer boutiques and stylish cafés along Theatinerstrasse.

Munich's self-described image is that of a fun-loving city, typified by Oktoberfest. The celebration, which began as part of the festivities for a royal wedding in 1810, has become a symbol of the city itself. It draws more than seven million visitors each year and has been called the world’s biggest fraternity party. This year’s festivities are from September 19 until October 4.

A special fairground is constructed with beer halls (the biggest tent is the Hofbräu-Festhalle, which holds 10,000) and for 16 days raucous hordes cram themselves into the city to have a good time. Think Mardi Gras in New Orleans, but with oompah-pah bands instead of jazz and beer instead of rum punch.

Even if you miss Oktoberfest, you still have to do the beer thing here. This is easily accomplished in any number of Munich’s beer gardens, but best achieved at the 1589 Hofbräuhaus in the Old Town’s heart—because beer does remain in the old town’s heart.

It’s a great place to become acquainted with German beer. I don’t usually like the taste of beer, but Munich offers something for everyone. First off, there’s Radler, a lemonade beer mix.

If you like dark beer, try the dunkel. Another favorite is the weißbier, or white beer, which is fruity and light and has a lot of carbonation. Then there are the hellas, which are also light in terms of taste, if not calories.

Munich is not without its share of hearty, traditional Bavarian cooking and is famous for Schweinsbraten (roast pork), Haxn (knuckle of pork), Steckerlfisch (grilled fish on a stick), Würstel (sausages) and the local Bavarian specialty Weisswurst (white sausages).

These come with gravy-covered Knödeln (potato dumplings), Käsespätzle (cheese noodles), Reiberdatschi (potato pancakes), Sauerkraut or Blaukraut (red cabbage) and such Bavarian delicacies as Obatzda (a fatty, spiced cheese-butter concoction). You can see from the list, and my expanded waistline, that I tried them all.

No German city is better known for relishing the culture of eating and drinking than Munich. Spending cash on culinary extravagances has become second nature to the locals—it’s not a credit card society. It should be noted that the quality of the cooking is not the only thing that is high—the prices are too.

Most locals stop at the lively Viktualienmarkt food stalls to shop for dinner and stand at tables for a snack or a beer in the local beer garden. The original farmers’ market, this has been the city's culinary center for around 200 years. More than just a market, it’s the village green of this big city.

Now for some 20th-century history: Adolf Hitler started his career in Munich as an orator in front of crowds that flocked to the beer halls of Munich in the 1930s. The situation was desperate: Germany was still suffering from World War I that ended in 1918. Inflation and political turmoil left people insecure and with no hope for improvement without radical changes.

Hitler tried to gain power with a coup directed against the Bavarian government in 1923, but was incarcerated and wrote "Mein Kampf" during that time. From 1935 to ‘45 Munich stood as the main town of the Nazi movement.

On April 30, 1945 American troops marched into this town, nearly 70 percent of which had been destroyed. As part of the reconstruction program, a special effort was made to preserve the historical areas, while building a new and dynamic city.

Marienplatz was reconstructed after World War II to appear just as it looked in the 15th-century and the 1488 Frauenkirche (cathedral) was also rebuilt to its old plan. The Munich Residenz, seat of the Wittelsbach dynasty, Bavaria's ruling clan for 500 years, was destroyed in World War II and painstakingly restored at a staggering expense. It was still being rebuilt when we visited.

Munich Residenz was begun in 1385 and its Renaissance façade, looking onto Max-Joseph Platz, gives no clue to the riches within. Exploring this huge palace complex, and its adjoining State Treasury with the crown jewels, could easily consume whole days. It’s an over-the-top must-see. Highly recommended is the gorgeous Antiquarium, a long, frescoed hall of Roman statuary that features buttressed ceilings and a hauntingly perfect sense of proportion and light.

Schloss Nymphenburg was the summer palace in an extended classical park on Munich’s western edge. The interior is filled with white marble, pastels and vivid frescoes on the entrance halls’ four-story-high ceilings. One particular highlight is King Ludwig I’s Schönheitsgalerie, a portrait gallery of the many women in his life, including the exotic Lola Montez.

We spent most of a day wandering the lovely gardens and huge palace complex. Swans ripple across the ponds of the palace grounds, where you might spot Franz, the current Duke of Bavaria, walking his dachshund, Wastl.

The huge public Englischer Garten (English Garden) is Munich’s most famous urban park. The three-mile long expanse sits at the edge of the Isar River and is by and large unmanicured, more like woods than a garden.

Locals describe Munich as Italy’s northernmost city. The pace is relaxed, and in the summer the beer gardens are packed and the sky is pristine—an ideal habitat for the sun worshipers who stake their ground “full monty” in the R-rated section of the sprawling English Garden.

In its center of the Englischer Garten is the Chinesischer Turm (Chinese Tower), a huge pagoda surrounded by the city's premier beer garden. A totally warm-weather phenomenon, it brings together all of Munich’s social classes at long tables under immense old-growth trees. The tower was built in 1789 and is used for music concerts. We spent a leisurely Sunday afternoon listening to a free concert, with the obligatory Maß (a liter of beer) and an apple strudel.

As a consequence of having been the royal residence of the art-loving Bavarian kings, Munich has inherited a rich legacy in the way of art. It is as if the Wittelsbachs were still holed up in the royal palace.

The Alte Pinakothek exhibits European paintings and sculpture dating from the 14th- to 18th-centuries, while fine arts from the 18th- and 19th-century are shown next door at the Neue Pinakothek. The Pinakothek der Moderne is a massive museum characterized by its concrete rectilinear façade that features four collections in each of its corners: art, design, architecture and works on paper. The Staatsgalerie is part of the Haus der Kunst where constantly changing temporary exhibitions attract many visitors.

The most famous of Munich’s museums is the Deutsches Museum, situated on an island in the River Isar. Visitors to the museum are taken on a spectacular voyage through the history of human technology from its early beginnings into the future. Then there’s the Stadtmuseum that lies at the cultural heart of Munich.

Munich is a weather-dependent city: its elevation of roughly 1,500 feet makes it cold in winter (average high of 40°F) and breezy and outdoorsy in the summer (average high of 72°F). In winter it’s a nearly Alpine paradise, just a quick car trip from skiing. In summer a sunny outdoor collection of parks and beer gardens seems to stretch across the whole city. Warm weather is critical for many of the city’s charms and May, June, September and October are considered prime months to visit.

Forget about renting a car. Instead, take advantage of the city's extensive train, tram, and bus network. A daily pass is about seven dollars. Buy your ticket on the platform—machines are plentiful—and don’t forget to date-stamp it: the subway is on an honor system, but undercover ticket takers regularly make their rounds. The train ride to and from the pristinely clean international airport is well signed and uncomplicated.

Munich, home to some 1.5 million people, has a gemütlich (cozy) atmosphere. We spent four days there, and it feels like home. People are easy-going and relaxed; Munich’s incomparable charm lies in its small-town flair, high standard of living and fun-loving attitude.

Judy Newell and her husband Jim recently returned from a vacation in Central Europe. She heads the travel company Perfect Journeys that specializes in discounted rates for airfare, hotels, tours and cruises worldwide, as well as luxury and adventure travel. Contact her with comments or suggestions at JudyNewell_03@msn.com or go to her website www.PerfectJourneys.net.