Day of the Dead in Pátzcuaro
By Deb Hall
October 17, 2008 San Miguel de Allende

Day of the Dead
Altar building & Pátzcuaro tickets
Tue, Oct 21, 2–6pm
Zócalo Folk Art
Hernández Macías 110
Free
Info: 152-0663

As surely as spirits and souls of the departed once again journey earthward from Mitlán (the Aztec underworld) to rejoin their families November 1–2, cultural enthusiasts from San Miguel and the world

over will travel to Pátzcuaro, Michoacán, to enjoy the vibrant artisans’ market, the decorated cemeteries and the colorful and ancient traditions surrounding El Día de los Muertos. But before heading to Michoacán, here are some insights and information that will make your trip all the more interesting this year.

Despite assumptions, the famed artisans’ market held during Day of the Dead in Pátzcuaro’s Plaza Don Vasco de Quiroga is a fairly “modern” event. Many artisan friends recall traveling as small children to Pátzcuaro with their parents during Día de Nuestra Señora de Salud, December 8, and selling folk art in the courtyard surrounding the Basílica, food stands extending down Calle La Paz toward Plaza Gertrudis Bocanegra. In an attempt to bolster tourism in the fall, Pátzcuaro’s civic and cultural leaders in the seventies began promoting the artisans market during Day of the Dead.

Other notable changes through the years have been in the flower market and in ousting artisans from the Plaza Grande. Previous to 2002, the glorious mounds of cempazuchitl (marigolds) and maroon-colored mota de obispo (cock’s comb) were sold on the northeast corner of the main plaza. Today, the Day of the Dead flower market is located on the south side of the Basílica on Calle Serrato. The year 2002 also brought the introduction of professional tents and lighting to the previous quaint-but-impractical jumble of blue tarps, miles of extension cords and booths lighted by a single bare bulb that made nighttime shopping for folk art an adventure. 

For me, the most dramatic “improvement” was the removal of artisans from the diagonal sidewalks connecting the plaza’s perimeter to the center fountain. Previously, from the seventies through the nineties, the Plaza Don Vasco de Quiroga was filled with beautiful wares from Ocumicho, Cocucho and Zinapecuaro (to name a few), while nearby children played as relatives joyfully passed the day gossiping, selling and painting even more folk art during the tianguis. Feeling that tourists should enjoy an unobstructed view of their beautiful plaza, villagers and their wares were moved to cramped spaces against the street curb in 2000, but to my thrill they were once again allowed inside the great plaza in 2002. In 2003, once again no one was permitted to display folk art inside the Plaza Grande, and it has remained so ever since. Although the space provided for the display of authentic indigenous folk art has decreased with time, the Day of the Dead folk art market in Pátzcuaro is wonderful and should not be missed.

The goal of many visitors is to attend the concurso, the juried folk art show held on November 1. This event, too, has seen many changes through the years. Sometimes held on the Plaza Don Vasco de Quiroga (2002), other times held at the Museo de Artes y Industrias Populares (years previous to 2001), and in 2007 held in the courtyard of the Centro Cultural Ex Colegio Jesuita de Pátzcuaro, one can only guess where this exciting and popular exhibition and sale will be conducted in 2008.

To gain entry and first pick of prize winners, begin lining up at the concurso entrance around 10:30am.

At the core of the Day of the Dead experience is viewing the cemetery altars in nearby villages decorated according to ancient Purhépecha tradition on November 1–2. One need not wander the countryside in heavy traffic at midnight to feel the spiritual side of indigenous Mexico’s most famous observance. Contract a taxi (if you don’t have a car) and visit Tzintzuntzan or Tzurumutaro on the afternoon of November 1, chatting with families as they lovingly prepare flower-filled altars. Or to experience another side of Muertos, await the arrival of caballeros (and caballeras) riding directly into Pátzcuaro’s Basílica de la Vírgen de la Salud courtyard on horses, ponies and burros just before dusk for a special mass. It is a thrilling sight.

The social highlight of Pátzcuaro’s Day of the Dead is Casa Encantada’s Ninth Annual Fiesta on Friday, October 31, 7:30pm, benefiting the local spay and neuter clinic. The food is fantastic, the margaritas are “bottomless,” and mariachis keep locals and visitors mingling and dancing until 11pm. Advance tickets (150 pesos per person) are available at Zócalo Folk Art on October 21 (tickets in Pátzcuaro at the event are 200 pesos per person).

Also on October 31, Pátzcuaro hosts their one and only home tour of the year benefiting Casa de Hogar Tata Vasco. This year, seven Mexican-owned colonial homes will be featured on the walking tour for a mere 100 pesos per person. Details about the home tour also will be available at Zócalo on October 21.

In addition to advance tickets, Zócalo will offer how-to information about altar building, including the meaning and use of handmade candles, incense holders (copaleros or saumerios), special Day of the Dead papel picados from Puebla (artfully cut tissue paper) and extra-fancy sugar skulls (alfenique) from Toluca. On view will be one Michoacán-style Day of the Dead altar and one evoking the unique traditions of central Puebla featuring a much-sought-after papel picado border collected by decorative arts aficionados from as far away as Japan.

Schedule of Events Upon arriving in Pátzcuaro, confirm event dates and times at the Tourism Office located on the western side of Plaza Don Vasco de Quiroga.

Friday, October 31

7:30–11pm, Casa Encantada’s Ninth Annual Fiesta, 150/200 pesos

Colonial home tour, 100 pesos

Saturday, November 1

10:30am, concurso, juried folk art show 

Before dusk, caballeros & caballeras, Basílica courtyard

Midnight, cemetery altars

Deb Hall is co-owner of Zócalo Folk Art located in San Miguel de Allende and Pátzcuaro. She writes regularly about Mexican culture and folk art at zocalodemexicanfolkart.blogspot.com.

Safe day hikes: Enjoying Mother Nature on her terms 
By Michael Austin
(Part 2; see Part 1 in Atención, Oct 10)

The Rules of Threes

Most people are familiar with the basic survival Rule of Threes: You are in trouble if you go three minutes without air, three hours without shelter in extreme conditions, three days without water and three weeks without food. Experienced wilderness wanderers use the Rule of Threes for all kinds of outdoor situations. The most basic Rule of Three involves travel in a group of three. Fellow travellers provide companionship, shared competence and, in the event of emergency, shared brain power and body heat if needed. Next, always dress in three layers, which in turn leads to the three W’s Rule. Wear a “wicking layer” against the skin to draw moisture away from the body. Cover that with a “warm layer,” generally wool, and finally add an outer layer to protect you from “wet,” usually Gortex or breathable nylon. Add or remove layers to stay in your personal comfort zone. Be sure to carry three sets of waterproofed matches or lighters in three different places on your body: one in your pack, one in your pocket and 
one around your neck. If you do encounter trouble in the wilderness, sit down with your two companions and discuss at least three plans for solving your problem.

Save your neck by using it

Here we go back to the Rule of Threes. Three items should be around your neck at all times: your knife, your matches and your compass. If you remove one of theses items for use, replace it immediately upon finishing the task at hand. Leaving a knife lying around is going to get someone hurt. Leaving your compass or your matches lying around could very well get you lost and frozen. This may seem like a lot of stuff hanging around your neck, but with a comfortable lanyard, padded if necessary, and your newfound sense of security you soon get used to it. 

I also have a whistle around my neck, so I suppose this could be the Rule of Fours; however, my whistle is always attached to my lanyard as a matter of course. A whistle will save you a lot of energy if you do get into an emergency situation and have to call for help. The universal distress signal is three of anything: three whistles, three gunshots, three dots of Morse code, etc.

The S_ _t-Hits-the-Fan can

I carry my “SHTF can” almost everywhere I go, including in my carry-on luggage for air travel. The SHTF can is a metal container with the essentials you need to maintain yourself comfortably during an unplanned situation, like an overnighter in the high desert. The “can” could be a metal soup can, a camping cup or a stainless-steel Starbucks coffee mug. This is one situation in which size matters, and in this case small is beautiful. You want the can to fit in that small corner of your pack that you never use. 

The contents I like to carry include a small multi-tool, matches or a lighter, a small piece of fire starter, a candle, a space blanket or large orange garbage bag, a condom or rubber glove, a short piece of cord, a packet of tea or coffee and a candy bar. The need for a multi-tool, matches and fire starter are pretty self-explanatory. Having a candle along improves your chances of starting a fire by reducing your need to use more than one “click of the Bic” to get it going. A large plastic garbage bag is a great rain poncho and a pretty good sleeping bag when stuffed with leaves, grass, newspaper or any other available bulky material. The fact that the bag is orange means that if someone has to search for you, you are easier to see. A condom or rubber glove is a superior water container useful for collecting, carrying and storing water (I prefer the unflavored, unlubed brands of condoms myself.) The can acts as a great cooking pot and coffee mug. Cordage is very useful for repairing gear, tying shelters tog
ether or replacing the pull cord on your chainsaw if you happen to have it with you. A bit of your favorite chocolate and a cup of coffee can provide a tremendous psychological lift in the event that you have to actually use the contents of the can. 

The SHTF can need not be expensive. You can probably assemble all the listed items by scrounging around the house. Once you get into the habit of carrying the can, you will never leave home without it, and you will look like a genius if indeed s_ _ t does hit the fan. (Note: The author assumes no responsibility if you fail to remove the knife and matches before you board a plane.) 

Bad weather, unforeseen events or an injury can turn the easiest day hike into a potentially fatal overnight nightmare. With a little advance planning and preparation, attention to detail and common sense, even a fairly major glitch can be dealt with confidently. Although not specifically mentioned, the need for extra clothes, a bandana, sunglasses, food, water and a first-aid kit should not be overlooked, even if these items will be (allegedly) provided by another member of your group. Be prepared to look after yourself. The confidence and peace of mind you gain by preparing for the unforeseen will only serve to enhance your outdoor adventure.

Michael Austin and his wife were ditched by their guide while trekking the jungles of Thailand. They hacked their way to safety using a multi-tool and common sense.

Travel News You Can Use
By Judy Newell

Mexico Travel News

Anti-crime protest worries tourism industry 

Across Mexico during the first week of September, hundreds of thousands of people turned out in marches protesting the failure of the government to halt violence and crime, especially kidnappings. Media coverage of the event worries tourism industry executives who fear travelers may decide to vacation elsewhere. 

Britain, Germany and Switzerland are among the European countries now cautioning their citizens about travel to Mexico in the wake of the current crime wave. All three countries mention that the police themselves in Mexico may be criminals. Travelers are urged to leave important documents locked in hotel safes and to leave unneeded valuables at home. Should an assault occur, they are told to yield, since Mexican thieves are quite likely to use their firearms. 

Mexican officials, for their part, agree that caution is a good idea, although they insist that cities in Mexico are no more dangerous than those in other parts of the world. Mexico City Mayor Marcelo Ebrard went so far as to declare that many European cities have higher murder rates than does the metropolis he governs, adding that he is not warning Mexicans to stay at home.

Fonatur outlines Huatulco growth plans 

Within four years, Huatulco will have 5,000 hotels rooms, nearly twice as many as exist now. This is the prime goal in relaunching the resort destination. Fonatur, the federal agency in charge of the project, has indicated it will invest in infrastructure projects as it seeks additional private investment. 

After two decades, Huatulco and Loreto (in Baja California) have failed to realize their potential, but Fonatur announced plans for a new master-planned resort development in Tamaulipas, a Gulf Coast state bordering on Texas. Designated La Pesca, the resort is aimed at attracting high-end travelers from Monterrey and Texas. Fonatur will invest US$200 million improving infrastructure and hopes to attract as much as $5 billion in private investment. 

Cruise passenger tax waived 

Mexico will not charge cruise ship passengers for debarking in Mexico. The previously approved levy of 56 pesos has been suspended, although cruise ship operators themselves will be billed 25 pesos for each passenger they bring to every port. 

Originally, the tax was to pay for installing immigration posts at cruise ship docks and additional infrastructure costs. Ship companies objected, not surprisingly, arguing that the benefits they bring to each port far outweigh the costs. In the end, unofficial sources indicated that no facilities were in place where passengers could pay the fee (technically, it is not regarded as a tax). 

Airlines normally include a non-immigration visitation fee plus various taxes in the price a customer must pay for a ticket. Cruise lines refuse to do this, arguing that some passengers might prefer not to disembark and that it would be unfair to charge them.

Carnival’s Puerto Maya pier in Cozumel to reopen 

Carnival Corp. will reopen its Puerto Maya cruise pier in Cozumel in October. It was damaged by Hurricane Wilma in 2005. 

Hurricane precautions 

With the hurricane season now here, authorities in Quintana Roo have joined with 30 foreign consulates to provide a tracking system for tourists in case of a severe storm. Tourists must register online, a process hotels can assist them with. In an emergency, if these tourists need to be relocated to special shelters, authorities will know who they are and where they have been sent. In previous years, days passed before consulates could provide such information to distraught family members.



International News

Peace through Tourism group debuts world peace tours

The International Institute for Peace through Tourism (IIPT) has launched a series of Peace Tours. The tours reinforce IIPT’s goal of making tourism the world’s first global peace industry and promote its belief that every traveler is a potential ambassador for peace. The first tours to Oman and Bhutan proved successful. The eight tours scheduled for 2009 go to Jordan, Bhutan, Algeria/Tunisia, South Africa, the Arabian Peninsula, Central America, Armenia and Iran. 

Travel warning for Yemen

The US State Department issued a travel warning for Yemen, reminding US citizens of the high security threat level in Yemen due to terrorist activities. It authorized the departure of non-emergency personnel and eligible family members of the US Embassy in Sana’a. Armed terrorists attacked the embassy in Sana’a on September 17. Explosions near the main gate killed several Yemeni security personnel and people waiting to enter the embassy.

Embassy employees and US citizens in Yemen are advised to exercise particular caution at locations frequented by foreigners. The embassy may restrict Americans from restaurants, hotels, or shopping areas, and recommends that American citizens defer nonessential travel to Yemen.

Disney offers free admission on birthdays

The Walt Disney Company announced that its US parks in Florida and California will offer free tickets to park-goers on their birthdays in 2009. Anyone who presents a valid ID showing proof of their birthday can claim a free ticket for a one-day admission for that date in 2009. You also can pre-register at www.disneyparks.com. 

The Disneyland and Walt Disney World Resorts also will offer new park experiences geared to the celebration theme, including street parties, video dance parties and barbecues.

Say cheese 


Crystal Symphony and Serenity cruises introduced professionally trained and certified cheese sommeliers in September following intensive training and certification by the International Cheese Academy of the Hotel and Tourism School in Bad Gleichenberg, Austria. Cheese sommeliers will offer suggestions on pairings with meals and wines, and insights on what blends thrive in certain regions of the world. In all, 50 cheese vintages from 20 countries will be offered, from the internationally renowned to more obscure artisan choices made by hand. 

Penguin lovers, this (pricey) cruise is for you 

Do you love penguins? Of course you do. Who doesn't, right? The real question is do you love them enough to spend US$21,000 for a chance to see them in the wild? That’s the amount pioneering adventure firm Quark Expeditions is charging for its latest gee-whiz offering:

a 22-day voyage to remote Snow Hill Island and South Georgia, sub-Antarctic islands, to glimpse two of the world’s most elusive and famed penguin species—the Emperors and the Kings.

Scheduled to start November 15, 2009, the “Emperors & Kings: Snow Hill and South Georgia” expedition travels on Quark’s hardy polar icebreaker, the Kapitan Khlebnikov, which already is famous for dozens of off-beat, one-of-kind expeditions across the Arctic and Antarctica. Only an icebreaker like the Khlebnikov could approach close enough to shuttle passengers within a mile and a half of the rookery on the ship’s helicopter, a rare amenity on a ship of any size. 

Acclaimed wildlife artist Robert Bateman and renowned wildlife photographer Birgit Freybe Bateman accompany travelers on the voyage, whose upper price range is $35,890 per person. 

Sources: Mexican Tourism News, Travel Pulse Daily, OSSN, New York Times

Judy Newell, a writer and travel industry executive, heads the custom tour company Perfect Journeys that specializes in luxury and adventure travel. Contact her with comments or suggestions at JudyNewell_03@msn.com  or go to her website www.PerfectJourneys.net.