Festivals & Events, November 17, 2006
Excerpted from “The Best of San Miguel de Allende”© by Joseph Harmes. Reprinted with permission.
November 17-26: Feria Nacional de Lana y el Latón
(National Brass and Wool Fair). Actually, a minor crafts fair of mostly touristy artesanía.
November 23-26: Festival de Jazz y Blues (Jazz and Blues Fest). Musicians and fans from Mexico and other countries gather during the same four-day holiday period when Thanksgiving is observed in the United States.
November 20 (Legal Holiday): El Aniversario de la Revolución Mexicana (Anniversary of the Mexican Revolution). Parades and civic events mark the beginning of the Revolution of 1910 and the removal of the dictator Porfirio Díaz from power. His rule led to the revolutionary cry of “effective suffrage, no re-election,” still found today at the foot of many legal and political documents. That accomplished, a second Revolution had to be fought in which Francisco Villa and Emiliano Zapata were leaders. At the same time, the United States government invaded and occupied Veracruz (in retaliation for the brief arrest of several sailors in Tampico a month before) from April to November 1914. Fighting (including another U.S. invasion, this time by Gen. John J. Pershing in 1916) and political unrest continued for the next twenty years.
November 22: Festividad de Santa Cecilia (Feast of St. Cecilia). Because she is known as the patron of the blind and musicians, the day also is known as Musicians’ Day. Anyone with an instrument gathers around midnight outside of El Oratorio de San Felipe Neri for a night-long serenade to the Virgin.
Mariachis: more than a song in their hearts
Atención archives, photos by John Sholtis (2005)
 |
 |
No celebration in Mexico is complete without mariachis. They are ever-present witnesses to the cycles of Mexican life, the accompaniment to Mexican rites of passage: birthdays, weddings, holidays and funerals are incomplete without mariachis. |
“The suits don’t change; the clients don’t change; and, although nowadays other kinds of music are also popular, the Mexican people continue to celebrate their joy, sadness—and even anger—with a mariachi song and a tequila. And that we owe to God, Mexico and Santa Cecilia,” says mariachi Antonio Rico (69), organizer of the celebration for the mariachi patron saint, Santa Cecilia.
This year on Wednesday, November 22, San Miguel mariachis will be joined by other musicians, trios and norteño groups for a sonorous tribute to the saint who blesses them with the gift of song—and clients. So if the Jardín appears strangely empty of the silver-bedecked musicians, look for them at the San Antonio church, where eight groups will sing the mañanitas to Santa Cecilia, a virgin martyr who sang during her suffering.
“It’s a marvelous and song-filled celebration to thank her for the work she provides us every year. Just imagine, almost 70 mariachis singing to her… it’s very emotional,” reflects Don Antonio.
The celebration
| The celebration begins at dusk on Tuesday, November 21, when most of the eight local mariachi groups meet at the Garibaldi Plaza (at the east end of calle Insurgentes). | |
 |
Singing classical festive songs, such as Caminos a Guanajuato and Guadalajara, they march to the San Antonio church to venerate the image of Santa Cecilia and participate in the 8pm mass.
The next day, mariachis and other musical groups return as early as 6am to sing mañanitas to Santa Cecilia. Traditional Mexican music continues until 8am. In the evening, fireworks and, of course, more music announces yet more celebration. A temporary stage will be set up to one side of the church so the groups can perform their heartfelt dedications for an appreciative audience.
The family business
Mariachi is a family tradition, especially in San Miguel. Usually, grandfathers, fathers, sons, male in-laws and even grandsons work together in the family business. “I didn’t want this for my children, but they wanted to be like their father. ¡Bien música!” says Don Antonio.
“For me, to work with my family and sons is very satisfying. We’re always together and we have fun—cheering our lives and the lives of others through song,” says Don Leonardo.
“We’re witness to the many moments of life’s joys or misfortunes. We’ve welcomed newborn babies and sung farewell to the deceased in cemeteries. We attend weddings, baptisms—even divorces.” Don Martín affirms, “I was born mariachi, and will die mariachi—with my guitar and my charro suit.”
Origin of the mariachi
Mariachi was born in southern Jalisco, land of the national drink—tequila—and comes from Náhuatl culture. Traditionally, the mariachi group includes two violins, a guitar, a guitarrón (big guitar) and a vihuela (small guitar). Originally, mariachi music was used to assist in converting native peoples to Catholicism. In 1500, a mariachi music school was founded in Mexico City. In 1850, Amado Vargas formed what is acknowledged as the first “modern” mariachi, with the inclusion of trumpets, and he brought national recognition to the genre. In the early 20th century, mariachis were well received in the capital, and were no longer limited to regional performances. Then with the invention of the radio in 1920, mariachi became well-established as Mexico’s national musical tradition.
Cost of the charro look
 |
|
Pants: 500 pesos Shirt: 300 pesos Tie: 250 pesos Hat: 1,500 pesos Coat: 500 pesos Boots: 1,000 pesos Buttons: 500 pesos TOTAL: 3,650 pesos |
Cost of instruments
| Violin: 2,000 to 50,000 pesos
Guitar: 1,000 to 40,000 pesos Vihuela: 5,000 to 10,000 pesos Trumpet: 3,000 to 15,000 pesos Guitarrón: 4,000 to 20,000 pesos |
|
 |
Cost of mariachi services
Per song: 100 pesos
Per hour: 2,000 to 2,800 pesos (14 songs)
Feast Day of Santa Cecilia
November 21
6pm, Plaza Garibaldi
8pm, mass in San Antonio Church
November 22
6–8am, mañanitas to St. Cecilia
6–10pm, celebration and singing contest
San Antonio Church