Festivals & Events

Excerpted from "The Best of San Miguel de Allende"© by Joseph Harmes. Reprinted with permission. See more at www.thebestofsanmigueldeallende.com 

May 23-26: Fiesta de la Santa Cruz (Santa Cruz Festival). The fiesta's origins date back more than three centuries in the Chichimeca-Otomí community known as el Valle del Maíz. No other neighborhood in San Miguel de Allende whoops it up more often-or better. Fireworks echo throughout town for about 96 hours during the deeply spiritual and religious activity, which includes some lighter moments. Oxen are costumed in necklaces made of limes and painted tortillas, their yokes covered in flowers. A colloquy (a sort of mystery play) is re-enacted, musicians perform, mojigangas (giant papier mâché puppets) and concheros Chichimecas dance and contestants try to climb a greased pole. One of the final acts takes place in a field near the Libramiento El Caracol pitting the Indians against the Spaniards. The latter are dressed in modern military camouflage, resembling Federales. A medicine man heals the wounded and brings the dead back to life. Huts are burned, rockets fired and spectators urged to move if the battle approaches them.

May 26: Festividad de San Felipe Neri (Feast of St. Felipe Neri). Learn to have a good laugh. After all, San Felipe Neri (1515-1595) is the patrón de educadores y humoristas (patron saint of educators and humorists) who reportedly once told colleagues that his two favorite books were the New Testament and another containing jokes. Indeed, some opposed his canonization because the Saint of Joy dared to laugh noisily. His interpretation of Catholicism and life led him to found the Oratorio in Rome. That description, found in some books, sounds overly-formal. In reality, it was a congregation of regular priests (the oratorianos) who lived in a community (Oratorio) of spiritual instruction and entertainment for children and young people. A day of dancing, music, fireworks and castillos acclaim Neri, who sounds like a person you could enjoy a beer with.