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by Joseph Harmes. Reprinted with permission. www.thebestofsanmigueldeallende.com Thursday April 13, Thursday of Holy Week: Jueves Santo (Holy Thursday, or Maundy Thursday). Several Biblical events play an important role in this solemn celebration, including The Last Supper, the Washing of the Feet of the 12 Disciples and the Arrest of Jesus. The altars of most churches are decorated, especially at La Iglesia de San Francisco. At La Iglesia de Santa Ana, the public touches and prays to a crucifix of Christ. Most shops close and do not open until after Easter. The faithful try to visit Las Siete Casas (or temples) comprising the town's main churches. La Santa Casa de Loreto (inside El Oratorio de San Felipe Neri) opens to the public. April 14, Good Friday: Viernes Santo (Good Friday). The most solemn day in San Miguel de Allende, when church bells are silent and mournful processions wind through town. Early in the morning, parishioners march from Atotonilco carrying the cross once borne annually by Padre Luis Felipe Neri de Alfaro (who founded the Santuario there). Later, El Señor de la Columna departs El Templo de San Juan de Dios and is taken to La Parroquia where it is displayed through Easter. Towards noon, a court is convened in front of La Iglesia de San Rafael (also known as La Santa Escuela de Cristo, next to La Parroquia) where Jesus is tried and consigned to his fate. The following procession, La Via Dolorosa (the Way of the Cross), leads to each of the Fourteen Stations (marked by plaques on streets in El Centro) before ending at La Capilla del Calvario. The events move to El Oratorio de San Felipe Neri where, around 5 p.m., the procession of the Holy Burial leaves with the body of Christ, the most profound spectacle of the year. Except for the brightly clad Roman Centurions, all adults dress in black: men in suits wearing gloves and purple sashes, women in veils. Little girls, garbed in white dresses with purple belts, tote baskets of rose petals. The mourners act as pallbearers for icons removed from local churches and draped in crimson. The cortege winds through the streets, paced by a repetitious drum beat and frequently halting for prayer. Shortly after dusk, the pageant files up Mesones street, its entire length illuminated by the soft glow of candles. April 15, Saturday of Holy Week: Sábado de Gloria (Holy Saturday). Sábado Santo (as it also is called) remains quiet until early evening when the candle- light procession of La Virgen de la Soledad leaves El Oratorio de San Felipe Neri. An image of the Virgin, dressed in black, is borne by a file of women (likewise dressed in black, their faces hidden by veils) who carry it around La Plaza Cívica Ignacio Allende before returning to the church. April 16, Domingo de Pascua (Easter Sunday): Mass is said, and the Resurrection glorified, at churches around town. Towards noon, the excitement moves towards the six-foot-tall papier mâché and crepe paper Judas figures strung between the Presidencia Municipal and El Jardín. The Easter tradition originated in colonial times and has been kept alive here for the last sixty years by a local craftsman. Representing hated politicians, persons in authority, even a cartoonish witch in a conical hat, the effigies hang throughout the morning. Around noon, small rockets are lit and, one by one, each figure twists and turns until a loud explosion shreds it into bits of paper and cane. Other communities in Guanajuato state also carry out the tradition. April 19, Wednesday after Easter: El Señor de la Columna is shrouded and a procession leaves El Templo de San Juan de Dios early that evening to carry the statue back to the Santuario in Atotonilco. |