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by Joseph Harmes. Reprinted with permission. www.thebestofsanmigueldeallende.com March and April: Celebraciones y Ritos de la Pascua (Easter Celebrations and Rites, a moveable holiday). While the events of September (the Fiestas Patrias, the Sanmiguelada and the Feast of San Miguel Arcángel) constitute the loudest-and the most profane-events on the town's calendar, the two weeks prior to Easter are its most colorful, solemn and holiest. Many of the traditions date to San Miguel de Allende's earliest origins. The glorious processions and pageants illustrate the true essence of this deeply religious town. Friday before Holy Week, April 7: Viernes de Dolores. The last Friday of Lent honors Nuestra Señora de los Dolores (Our Lady of Sorrows) with special Masses (at El Oratorio de San Felipe Neri and La Iglesia de San Francisco), prayers and the erection of incendios (home altars). In San Miguel de Allende, the day also is known as Friday of the altars, paying homage to the anguish of the Virgin Mary. The four dozen fountains in town are cleaned and decorated with flowers (lilies and chamomile), purple and white crepe paper and chains of fruit, especially oranges. Beautiful home altars--some simple, others elaborate--are constructed around an image of La Virgen de los Dolores. Passersby are invited to inspect them that night and welcomed with small gifts of candy, nuts, fruit and drink. Sunday before Easter, April 9: Domingo de Ramos (Palm Sunday). Vendors arrive at dawn at churches, markets and the Parque Benito Juárez to sell intricately woven palm fronds in the shapes of crosses, vessels and other designs. Many are decorated with small religious emblems, purple thread and chamomile. Later in the morning, different processions (re-enacting Christ's arrival in Jerusalem) troop to different churches where priests bless waving palm fronds: one walks from Benito Juárez Park up Sollano (the street and homes decorated with paper and real flowers and chains of crepe paper) to La Parroquia; another leaves La Capilla del Calvario (led by a man on a donkey and trailed by twelve Disciples) en route to La Iglesia de San Francisco. Thursday of Holy Week, April 13: Jueves Santo (Holy Thursday, or Maundy Thursday). Several Biblical events play an important role in this solemn celebration, including The Last Supper, the Washing of the Feet of the 12 Disciples and the Arrest of Jesus. The altars of most churches are decorated, especially at La Iglesia de San Francisco. At La Iglesia de Santa Ana, the public touches and prays to a crucifix of Christ. Most shops close and do not open until after Easter. The faithful try to visit Las Siete Casas (or temples) comprising the town's main churches. La Santa Casa de Loreto (inside El Oratorio de San Felipe Neri) opens to the public. |