June 27, 2008, Vino y Paella promises to be scrumptious, By Atención staff, Good Food in Mexico, The lowly tortilla, By Nicholas Gilman, House & Garden Tour, Sensual curves, jungle terrace, hidden gem, By Jennifer Hamilton

Vino y Paella promises to be scrumptious
By Atención staff June 27, 2008 San Miguel de Allende

This weekend, San Miguel will again play host to the much-anticipated Third Annual Festival Gastronómico de San Miguel de Allende, Vino y Paella.

With 20 percent of all ticket sales benefitting local nonprofit, Centro de Crecimiento, tickets will go fast, so make sure and get yours.

Paellas from Chefs Israel Juárez at Basiko, Tomás Colás at BROS, Alejandra González Grillesca at CocinARTE, Pablo Sanromán at D.O., Joan & Joel Casas from Asador Catalán, Javier Sevilla from Hotel El Cano, Sergio Salmón at El Caserío, Itzel Carolina Pérez Cruz at Harry’s,

Pepe Ortega at La Giralda, Enrique Olvera at Pujol/Eno and Cesár Reynoso Robles at Villa María Cristina will be showcased at the Rancho San Luis Gonzaga on the way to Querétaro.

Israel Juárez runs the kitchen at tapas and wine bar, Basiko in Monterrey.

Alejandra González Grillesca turns events into something special with her team of chefs and organizers at CocinARTE in Querétaro.

Pablo Sanromán helms the kitchens at D.O. in Polanco in Mexico City, and chose to name his restaurant after the highest classification given to regional wines in Spain, Denominacion de Origen.

Joan & Joel Casas serve all sorts of Spanish treats at their local San Miguel restaurant, Asador Catalán.

Javier Sevilla has come all the way from Acapulco to represent the oceanside restaurants at Hotel El Cano.

Sergio Salmón opened El Caserío in 1995 in Celaya with another well-respected chef from San Sebastian, Spain, with an eye towards representing each of the distinct culinary regions of Spain.

Itzel Carolina Pérez has been working the kitchens at San Miguel institution Harry’s, turning out some of the most popular Cajun food in town.

Enrique Olvera founded Pujol at the age of 23 and has since become one of the most celebrated chefs in Mexico.

Cesár Reynoso Robles is the much-celebrated chef at Villa María Cristina in Guanajuato.

With wines and spirits from Bacardi, Bodegas La Negrita, Concha y Toro, Corona, Jaral, Usero, Montes Alpha, Maestro Tequilero, L.A. Cetto and La Europea/Viñas del Vero, the warm weather and delicious paella will be well-matched with wines and beers of your choice.

Tickets may be purchased at Casa Maxwell, El Pegaso and Hotel la Morada.

The Centro de Crecimiento’s mission

The Centro de Crecimiento offers opportunities for children with disabilities to improve their physical condition, education and self esteem so that they can become contributing members of our community.

The incredible spirit and determination of our children is an inspiration to all of the family members of this one of a kind children's rehabilitation center. Not unlike other families we face daily struggles. With your help we can make miracles happen.

For more information, visit http://www.cdecsma.org/.

The tortilla is the soul of Mexico. Whenever I arrive back in Mexico after a trip abroad, the first thing I long for is the fragrant aroma of freshly made tortillas. According to culinary historian José Iturriaga, it is the only pre-Conquest food still eaten in unadulterated form today—all other dishes are a fusion of outside ingredients and cooking techniques.

Nowadays, many tortillas in Mexico contain factory-produced corn flour from large-scale industrial farms, using inferior, genetically modified varieties of corn—much of it imported from the US. George W. Bush’s government has recently approved legislation allowing free import of these products, underpricing Mexican farmers and threatening production of traditional “criollo,” or heirloom varieties of seed.

When I eat in a Mexican restaurant, the first thing I try is the tortilla, and my judgment of the place goes from there. An exquisitely flavorful tortilla, exuding an earthy bouquet of corn with a residue of smoky aroma from the comal (griddle) where it was roasted and a slightly elastic texture, is what I look for. Like bread in France, a well-made tortilla is a sign of good things to come.

“Grinding corn” from Diego Rivera’s mural in the Palacio Nacional

In el Distrito Federal, here are a few of my favorite places serving extraordinary, handmade tortillas:

El Bajío
Avenida Cuitláhuac 2709, Colonia Obrera Popular
Metro: Cuitláhuac
Tel. 5234-3763
Open Mon–Fri, 10am–6:30pm
Sat, Sun 9am–6:30pm
www.carnitaselbajio.com.mx

Branches:
Parque Delta Mall, Av. Cuauhtémoc 462,
Colonia Narvarte (not on map)
Tel. 5538-1188
Open daily 8am–8pm

Alejandro Dumas 7, Colonia Polanco
Tel. 5281-8245
Open daily 8am–11pm

Reforma 222
Paseo de la Reforma at Insurgentes, Colonia Juarez
Open daily 8am–11pm

Chef Carmen Titita, author of several cookbooks, is a big name in the Mexico City culinary scene. Her original restaurant is popular with families, especially on weekends. The food is traditional, with interesting choices: try the duck in black mole and the chongos (a weirdly wonderful curdled milk dish) for dessert. Recently, two branches of El Bajío have opened, one at Parque Delta, a sleek shopping center; it is more accessible to the Centro, but lacks the ambience of the original location. The branches in Polanco and Reforma are open at night. The menu in all four locations is the same, and the tortillas are memorably meaty and smoky.

Contramar
Calle Durango 200, near Plaza Cibeles,
Colonia Roma
Metro: Insurgentes
Tel. 5514-3169
Open Mon–Sat 1–6:30pm, Sun 1:30–6:30pm

This fashionable spot is one of the best seafood restaurants in town. The large open room, simply but creatively decorated, has a bright, Pacific Coast beach atmosphere. The menu is pure Baja: tuna sashimi and pescado a la talla (a whole open fish grilled with two salsas–half red, half green) are outstanding. Vivacious owner Gabriela Cámara, who is active in Slow Food International, serves tortillas, made in-house from organic corn grown in Xochimilco, right in the Distrito Federal.

Tacos Beatricita
Calle Londres 190, between Florencia and Varsovia,
Zona Rosa
Tel. 5511-4213
Open Mon–Sat for comida only

The beloved and legendary Taquería Beatriz on calle Rep. de Uruguay in the centro, founded by one Beatríz Muciño Reyes, was the oldest extant taquería in the country, celebrating its 100th anniversary in 2007; then promptly closing its worn, historical doors. We still have Beatricita, albeit with a little less atmosphere, run by the same family, where the luscious moles poblano and verde are served in large yellow tortillas redolent of roasted corn that aficionados of the original will remember. There are lines at comida-time for the 56-peso menu.

Nicholas Gilman is the author of Good Food in Mexico City: A Guide to Street Food, Fondas, and Fine Dining, which recently won the Gourmand Award. He is a founding member of Slow Food Condesa/Roma, and resides full-time in Mexico City. His photographs illustrate this article.

House & Garden Tour
By Jennifer Hamilton

Sensual curves, jungle terrace, hidden gem

1. This new home was designed to bring the outside in with many floor-to-ceiling glass windows and doors all facing the patio or front entranceway with its circular grassed-in area, vines climbing the walls, and sensually curved outdoor stairwell. The architect built around the tree at the entranceway where an enclosed bamboo garden can be seen. The living room is wide open with an angular, polished wood ceiling and cantera fireplace. A book-filled guest/library/office contains recessed lighting with an astounding painting by young Mexican artist Alejandro Riveraon on one wall. The living room is a spectacular indoor/outdoor entertainment area which faces the luscious green garden with its terraced “river” sporting glass fountains at each end designed by Ana Thiel. The master bedroom faces west and overlooks the garden. Outside, a long, rectangular terrace filled with plants is the perfect spot to enjoy that evening margarita while relishing San Miguel’s impressive sunsets.

2. A juxtaposition of elegance and whimsy, it’s immediately apparent when entering this eclectic home that the owner’s motto is “live life to the fullest, enjoy every moment and above all have fun with one’s surroundings.” This is evident in the enchanting and colorful artwork, vibrant colors in paint selections, tiles in bathrooms and general feeling of joie de vivre throughout. Wit and sense of humor are obvious everywhere—check the spectacular light show in the guest bathroom. The overall view from the entrance hall is that of curved, open doorways and rounded openings, giving the entire living and dining area a soft, sensuous feel. The outside jungle-inspired entertainment area is filled with thick, plush seating areas, pillows, rattan chairs, masks and jungle lighting on the walls. A multi-colored striped wall in the guest bedroom on the first floor is hand painted, has its own private patio and a colorful, humorous “rooster bathroom.” Guests can enjoy the twin-bedded folk art room upstairs painted in ri
ch, strong colors and brilliantly colored tiled bathroom. The master bedroom contains an office area, built-in bookshelves and a modern four-poster bed. Most amusing is the bathroom…with a (yes!) crystal chandelier positioned over the Jacuzzi and a tiny sink 4-5 inches in size for a quick hand-washing. The owner actually demolished a bóveda ceiling so that a rooftop terrace could be built offering unparalleled views over the city’s church domes and hillsides to the east.

3. This beautiful home is one of the hidden gems behind an inconspicuous door on a small street. A long walkway leads through the lush garden with a huge, ancient tree, past the indoor/outdoor pool/billiard room, outdoor shower and swimming pool. The master bedroom on the first level is spacious, with an equally capacious bathroom and deep bathtub with separate shower enclosed in tragaluces. Up a curving stairwell to the second floor with its striking stained glass windows, one enters the spacious living and dining areas, both with beautiful bóveda ceilings and dramatic chandeliers designed and made in San Miguel. An intimate bar area is adorned with a fanciful painting of San Miguel. The spacious kitchen is tiled in rich colors, with an outstanding view to the west. A wraparound veranda offers additional space for entertaining and watching beautiful sunsets.