Good Food in Mexico City
By Nicholas Gilman August 29, 2008 San Miguel de Allende

Tastes of Mexico in el DF

Part II

Almost 2,000 miles separate Mexico’s northern border with the US and its southern extreme, which meets Guatemala.

While both regions share ingredients and techniques we associate with Mexican cooking—corn, chilies, beans, etc.—the cultural and environmental influences are very different and the flavors are, too.

Chiapas

Chiapas, the southernmost state is home to several indigenous cultures, those least affected by colonialization and the reforms of the Revolution. Poor and marginalized to this day, Mayan people of the region have conserved much of their cultural and culinary identity. The state embraces ocean, tropical lowlands, and mountains, so there’s a great variety of materia prima. Fewer types of chilies are found here, but unusual herbs, vegetables, and fruits, such as chipilin, yuca, chicozapote, guanábana, and chirimoya are daily staples. “Pre-hispanic” meats such as armadillo, iguana and jabalí (wild boar) are found in the markets. Corn, as always in Mexico, is the basis of every meal, but unique to Chiapas are drinks made of ground and toasted corn and a wide variety of tamales.

Chamula’s Bar
Bolivar 438, corner Torquemada, Colonia Obrera
Metro José Peon Contreras
Tel. 5519-1336
Open daily 1–9pm
$$

A short taxi ride south of the centro histórico, Chamula’s is the only restaurant in Mexico City specializing in authentic Chiapaneca cuisine. The old-fashioned dining room is decorated with colorful hand-woven tablecloths and local crafts. Many unusual dishes are offered; start with a refreshing pozol, a slightly sweet drink made with toasted corn and chili. Notable among the entremeses (appetizers) are several kinds of tamales including one scented with chipilin, a pungent green herb. Chicken with mole or pork with pipian are favorite main courses, as is grilled tasajo (thinly sliced beef marinated in an achiote-flavored chili sauce). The Lacondon menu even offers wild boar and iguana. On weekends, a great marimba band, the music typical of the region, plays.

Chihuahua

At the northern extreme of Mexico from Chiapas, the rough, dry terrain of Chihuahua has a culture influenced by American and European immigrants (including a large community of German dialect-speaking Mennonites, famed for their cheese) and by the indigenous nomadic tribes.

With less variety to choose from, it’s cowboy and beef country up here—they like their meat, spiced up with lots of picante chilies. Wheat tortillas are more common than corn.

La Toma de Tequila
Toluca 28-C at Baja California
Metro Centro Médico (at the exit marked Toluca)
Tel. 5584-5250
Open 1–8pm Daily
No credit cards are accepted
$-$$ 

This homey place specializes in the cuisine of Chihuahua, the state from which owner Raul Vargas hails (his wife is from Jalisco, explaining the incongruous use of “Tequila” in the name). Red and blue tablecloths, yellow walls, wooden floors, and Northern-themed prints create a warm and comforting atmosphere. Sopa de tortilla is fragrant with cumin, and garnished with chicharrón, avocado, and roasted chiles. Frijoles norteñas come sprinkled with pungent, white queso Chihuahua, and slices of pickled chiles. A popular main course is asados: grilled beef prepared in red colorado or green pasado sauce and served with fresh wheat tortillas. Vibrant red cecina adobada (dried, pounded and chilied beef) was a big hit at our table. The lemonade is rich and not too sweet, and the tequila flan is exceptional. Ask to sample their special house mezcal, produced in the state.

In future articles, I will discuss the foods of other states—there are 31 of them!

Nicholas Gilman, formerly of San Miguel, lives in Mexico City. He is author of Good Food in Mexico City: A Guide to Food Stalls, Fondas and Fine Dining, available from online booksellers. His website is www.mexicocityfood.net. 

House & Garden Tour
By Jennifer Hamilton

Mexican masks, sensual shapes, Santuario from the rooftop

House & Garden Tour
Sun, Aug 31, noon
Biblioteca Pública
Insurgentes 25
US$15 or 150 pesos
Breakfast at Café Santa Ana starting at 9am

1. Architect Francisco Molino designed this five-suite bed & breakfast and gallery. It was envisioned as a true colonial home with all the rooms spilling onto a large center courtyard and fountain. This home was designed to take full advantage of San Miguel’s mild climate, thus there are many outdoor living spaces and some of the most spectacular views of the town. One owner is a collector of traditional Mexican masks and the other represents a group of Mexican artisans and artists. As a result, this home and gallery offer a unique look at Mexican craft and culture. The masked tunneled entrance alone is worth the visit! In 2006, an extra wing was added to house an outstanding collection of masks and artifacts, a mini-museum which can be visited by appointment only. 


2. This home is so full of wonders it would take a whole book to describe it! A riot of color, a plethora of sensual and undulating shapes, a flood of design treats await visitors as they enter under a curvaceous canopy separating the main house from the studio/gallery. A softly flowing water-wall falls gently to its pebbled base, leading to the entranceway where an abundance of delights greet visitors once they are inside. Windows are curvaceous, as are the lighting fixtures, kitchen islands and walls. Soft colors blend from wall to wall, room to room, and while large in size, every room has been cunningly designed to emanate a feeling of coziness and warmth. The master suite encircles and is open to part of the garden, with both indoor and outdoor showers encased in colorful tile mosaics, and the bathtub designed to the owner’s exact proportions. Comfortable furnishings were placed throughout, and you will view numerous collections from Japanese ikebana baskets and antique teapots to contemporary ceramics 
and glass to excellent Mexican folk art and, oh, so much more. The dogs even have their own private dog-washing bathroom! Impossible to describe it all here, it is worth a return visit for a private and detailed tour. With eight acres of land hugging the Rio Laja, the owners are still working on details outside, but of special note is the infinity pool with its extraordinary sculpture by Jerry Rothman. The Santuario de Atotonilco can be seen from the rooftop deck. Cathi House designed the entranceway and its softly rolling canopy specifically to align with this famous and ancient retreat just a mile away. The gallery is choc-a-bloc full of treats including over 100 vintage Mexican textiles, antique Mexican furniture, historic photographs and distinctive folk art. The other owner is the respected and recognized author of six relationship books.