Offerings for your altar
By Maria Teresa Valenzuela
Photographs & personal items
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Family photographs and objects of value to the departed give the dead the feeling of being back home again. The dead care about the materials things of their former life and are comforted by their favorite possessions. Just as in life, each soul has a bit of vanity and wants to be admired during the fiesta |
Flowers & incense
Flowers are the most representative element of the offerings. A floral carpet leads the souls back home, while the cempasúchil (yellow marigold) is believed to carry the smell of death. A copal incense burner is placed in the center as the pungent woody aroma of the copal leads the departed to the Ofrenda.
Candles
The flame of the candle lights the way to guide the deceased soul home. Candles decorated with ribbons are placed on the altar, one candle for each deceased family member. As each candle is lit the names of the departed are called out, as if to say "Come back home, my dearest, your family awaits you".
Food & Drink
In ancient Aztec culture souls returned once a year seeking nourishment and community, finding their way back home by the scent of their favorite foods. It is believed that the soul tastes the food through the smells and that the spirit consumes the essence of the meal. When the spirit has consumed its fill of the meal, the food and drinks are then shared with relatives and visiting friends.
A glass of water is always set out for the soul to quench its thirst and alcoholic beverages are to remind the soul of good times past.
The names of the departed are often written on the sugar skulls, but Mexicans also write the names of the living, to remind us all of life's fragility.
Papel Picado
Curtains of papel de china picado are hung behind the altar in designs cutout with skeletons, flowers, birds, and coffins. The purple color represents mourning and hot pink or bright orange signify the joyful return of the departed to the land of the living.
Shopping for Día de los Muertos
By Rhonda Vlasak
| Casa Mariano Casa Marino, Portal Allende 10 Dancing skeletons and donkeys, oh my! Stand out in a crowd with one of these cheerful, colorful and amusing El Día de los Muertos T-shirts: 140 pesos |
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Casa Maru, Pila Seca 13 These colorful, hand-painted catrín and catrina tile murals are a unique art form that is sure to be a conversation piece and brighten up a wall, countertop, outdoor kitchen or patio table: 800–1,000 pesos |
| Casa Maxwell 2 Casa Maxwell, Canal 14 and Umarán 3 Help the spirits of the dead find your home with the aroma of this enticing Mexican feast. They will be thrilled to join this last supper. Surrounding this table is a colorful carpet—tapete de arena—made from dyed sawdust: 1,750 pesos |
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De Todo un Poco De Todo un Poco, Mesones 56 Decorate the space above your table of ofrendas with these lanterns and fluttering banners of multicolored tissue paper cut-outs (papel picado) in intricate designs. The colors have special significance: black repesents the land of the dead; purple, pain and suffering; pink, celebration; white, hope; yellow/orange, sun and light; red, the blood of Jesus and the life blood of humans and animals: 30 pesos |
| El Nuevo Mundo El Nuevo Mundo, San Francisco 17 Decorate the altar in your home with these delightful figurines that are sure to make you smile: 70–200 pesos |
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Galeria Mariposa Galería Mariposa, Recreo 38 Elegant and poised catrinas are dressed to the nines in the flamboyant hats and evening gowns of 19th-century grande dames. The lady represents death, which can catch up to you anywhere and anytime: 200–500 pesos |
| Khalil Khalil, Pila Seca 18 Invite the living spirits of your family to be serenaded with their favorite song by these skeleton (calavera) musicians: 1,200 pesos |
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Magenta Magenta The nicho, or skeleton shadow box, can be used on your altar and as a year-round decoration for those who enjoy the Day of the Dead artwork. This nicho is entitled “Heart Finds Its Soul” by Rebecca Peterson: 900 pesos |
| Papel Mache Plaza San Miguel, San Francisco 8 The figure of a death as comic skeleton began in the 18th century, and now these calaveras are a prominent feature of the holiday. Cardboard and papier mâché calaveras: 80–(N)350 pesos |
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Plaza Civica Plaza Civica Annually, the la feria del alfenique, a special candy fair, is held at the Plaza Cívica. Alfenique is the special confection used to make the small skulls, fruits and animals. The names of loved ones can be written on the forehead of a sugar skull: 3–(N)7 pesos |
| Plaza Norman Plaza Norman, San Francisco 10 A complex and elaborate clay “Tree of Death” is made of skulls, musicians, flowers and butterflies; it is then fired and painted. The tree of death is similar to the tree of life, because it is believed that all of the comforts of the present world exist in death, and the tree represents the new life that occurs after death: 10,000 pesos |
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Ren Ellis 2 Ren Ellis - A Leather Shop Recreo 8-A Wear your art! Designed by the team of Ren Ellis and Jon Vogel, this short, fitted, brown suede ladies jacket features a finely hand-painted catrina with crosses on the front: 4,600 pesos |
| Tepozquilas 1 Tepozquilas, Umarán 24-A Sure to be a focal point in any room, this shadow skeleton cylindrical lamp is made with natural wood on a rustic base: 3,650 pesos |
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Tesoros Galería Tesoros, Recreo 8-B These hand-carved, wooden catrines and catrinas show the comical side of Día de los Muertos and will complement any display: 565(N)1,000 pesos |
| Zócolo, Hernández Macías 110 On November 2, candles are used to help light the way for the spirits. These delicate, floral calavara candlesticks are such beautiful works of art that you just might decide to have them always on display: 395 pesos. The Linares family has been making various Day of the Dead figures and other art for over a hundred years in Mexico. These humorous papier-mâché skulls are original works of art by the fourth generation of the famous Linares family: 750–(N)1,100 pesos |
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How to Raise the Dead: 17 spirited ways to make death your muse
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Get into the spirit of things with parties, classes, tours and exhibits that are celebrating the dead by bringing more life to the living! |
1. Dead men do eat bread!
Purchase the traditional Pan de Muertos from Buena Vida bakery on Hernández Macías 72-5 or from the bakery in your neighborhood. Eat it dipped in hot chocolate, mmm…to die for!
2. A favorite haunt.
The normal deathly silence at the city cemetery will be broken by family visits, serenades and prayers on November 1 and 2. With the streets lined with stalls selling flowers, tin cans for flowers, tacos, fruits and flavored water—everything necessary for the living and the dead—it’s easy to find (located on the side street near the hotel Real de Minas). Buses marked “Panteón” run regularly from Centro to the cemetery for 4 pesos. But be prepared to wait in line unless you come early in the day.
3. The quietest “colonia” in San Miguel?
Not on your life! The old cemetery (calle San Antonio Abad) is open to the public once a year from 9am to 7pm, November 1 and 2. Tread carefully among the 19th-century graves that are beautifully decorated with intricate patterns created from flower petals and offerings from the families.
4. “Altar” your life.
Joseph Dispenza speaks on “Pilgrimage: Travel as Spiritual Practice” at 3:30pm, Monday, October 30, Santa Ana Theater, Biblioteca Pública. Proceeds go to the San Miguel Walk, the January pilgrimage that supports CASA—working to end domestic violence.
5. Voice from the grave.
Karen Karabasz discusses the historic rituals and practices of Day of the Dead in Mexico, from dancing calacas (skeletons) and chocolate coffins to the practice of making altars to honor the dead. Monday, October 30, at 5pm at the Warren Hardy School, San Antonio Abad 13. 50 pesos.
6. Dress to Kill.
Dance with the devil and assorted ghouls, spirits and reincarnations at Mama Mía’s annual Halloween Party on Tuesday, October 31, at 10pm. Vie for the prize for best costume, and dance until you drop. Mama Mía is located at calle Umarán 8.
7. “I Ain’t Got No-Body.”
Celebrate Catrina, at the 5th annual Catrina Parade and Party at Rancho Los Labradores on November 1. The festivities begin with a parade at the Jardín at 8pm. At 9pm take the free shuttle to Los Labradores for the other festivities, including a Mexican dinner, traditional ofrenda, music with Son y Candela and the costume contest. Return shuttle to town (St Paul’s Church) runs every 30 minutes until 12:30am. 200 pesos.
8. Enjoy a deadly sin in an upright position.
Get passionate with the Passion Tango/Jazz orchestra and tango milonga from 5 to 8pm, Wednesday, November 1, Bella Italia, interior Canal 21, 175 pesos.
9. Music hath charms to soothe the savage breast—but a margarita might be faster!
Don’t miss the pre-Hispanic music concert, 7:30pm on Wednesday, November 1, Teatro Santa Ana, Biblioteca Pública. 50 pesos.
10. A taste of life and death.
Sierra Nevada chef Gonzalo creates a delicious altar and traditional menu for those hungry for more than history at the Sazón cooking class, 11am to 1:30pm, November 1 and 2, at Sazón, Correo 22. Info at www.sazon.com.
11. Life blooms in the desert.
Join the celebration at Charco del Ingenio (main entrance) on Thursday, November 2, at 5pm, to inaugurate the new administration building and library. You can admire the traditional altar, created by Hermes Arroyo and dedicated to the memory of Toni de Gerez, friend and contributor to the Botanical Garden. Call 154-4715 for more information.
12. Eat, drink and be merry, for tomorrow…
Mercedes Arteaga, owner of La Bugambilia restaurant, shares the secrets of traditional Day of the Dead food from the Bajío region in a special class for La Cocina Cooking School. Thursday, November 2, at 2pm and 5pm. For more information, contact Kris Rudolph at El Buen Café, Jesús 23, or visit
www.mexicocooks.com
13. Singing over the bones.
Be there when the “Skeleton Woman Comes Out of the Closet,” an art installation by Theresa Sergneri. The opening reception is on Thursday, November 2, from 6 to 9pm at Umarán 32.
14. Picking over the bones, paper figures and sugar skulls.
Scour the markets for all the materials you’ll need to make your own altar honoring your ancestors.
15. Dead ringer.
What’s the difference between the defunct El Petit Journal and new arts mag Malabar? Certainly not the exec director el catrin Pascual. Find out on Thursday, November 2, 7pm, Chocolate Lounge, Mesones 99.
16. I see dead people.
Awaken your sixth sense with a visit to the ultimate ghost town, Pozos. Located 30 miles from San Miguel, the town features art galleries, fine dining as well as abandoned mine shafts, historic haciendas and a graveyard.
17. Dead Poets Society.
Meet your inner dead muse and write “Calaveras” (rhyming poems) about your own favorite dead people.
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