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Buildings and cities
By Edgar Soberon, Aug 11, 2006
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We often remember and associate towns and cities with their architectural landmarks. This is due in part to the dominance such structures exert over the urban landscape, its profile or skyline.
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I also think that we come to associate places with such structures not only because of their monumental scale, their function or beauty but also due to a barrage of images in the media that help shape a symbolic representation in our collective imagination. Such architectural landmarks come to embody not only a place but oftentimes a people and a culture; their form somehow becomes a countenance that we all come to recognize, like a familiar face.
The latter is evident even for places we have not visited. I think of Sydney, Australia, and can't help conjuring up the image of its opera house on the bay. With Barcelona, I picture its Sagrada Familia, not to mention Bilbao, which now has a global profile thanks to Frank Gehry and his spaceship-like Guggenheim Museum. Probably the most famous of all landmarks and one of the few without a useful function is the Eiffel Tower. Over the years it has come to symbolize not only Paris and all things French but also 20th-century modernism. These examples, just to name a few, are images we all carry around in our memory and imagination; one might call them picture postcards of the mind.
This brings to mind an essay I read years ago by the French author Roland Barthe titled "The Eiffel Tower." In this short essay, Barthe recalls how the writer Guy de Maupassant had lunch every day in the Tower's restaurant. This, the author claimed, was the only way to enjoy a few hours in the day when he did not feel the presence of the iron monolith watching over him. Maupassant's obsession or eccentricity may be written off as charming, if not mildly neurotic or paranoid-at least, that was my first reaction upon reading the essay. Years later, I had the chance to confirm its deeper meaning and implications with the fall of the World Trade Center in lower Manhattan. Having lived in Chelsea for many years, I recall that months after the collapse of the prominent twin towers I still looked back over my shoulder on my way home in order to verify their disappearance. Their presence was still felt, but unlike Maupassant's feeling, this was more a sense of two phantom limbs, the real appendages having been severed from the New York skyline. All those years the towers had marked the way south on my mental map, and suddenly they had vanished forever.
If the fall of the World Trade Center left a scar on the collective imagination of a city, this void would eventually be filled once again by other landmarks. The Empire State Building or another skyscraper would once again rise to take dominance; Manhattan, unlike many places, has plenty of these iconic symbols. I have often thought of New York as one of those reptiles or tropical plants that when a limb or branch is cut grows another in its place right away. It is a place unlike any other, constantly changing, reinventing itself with endless energy. If I recall correctly, one of the proposals by a young architect for the rebuilding of the World Trade Center site was one in which four identical towers, or quadruplet towers, rose out of Battery Park. I think this illustrates the idea very clearly.
When we think of San Miguel de Allende, the image that comes to mind is that of the Parroquia. It is a neogothic fantasy of the late-19th century whose particular charms are not only its medieval pretensions but its scale and proportions, attributes that somehow help to humanize the building. Just think of the monumental cathedrals in France or Germany that must have inspired it. These are buildings that were made to inspire awe, even fear, in spectators, not unlike their modern counterparts, the skyscraper. The Parroquia is by comparison something out of a fairy tale, its pink "cantera" limestone the color of human skin. Even though it dominates the skyline, as monumental structures often do, it is not visible from every vantage point in town.
I must add here that the unfortunate coloration recently applied to the building has received mixed reviews among residents. We are all hoping that in time it will fade through weathering, if it cannot be presently corrected. On a sunny day, standing up close before the building, one can almost accept the new coloration since in the sunlight it blends in with the original color of the limestone (a much cooler pink). However, when viewed from a distance or from the outskirts of town, the top part appears an intense light red-oxide, which is further enhanced against the blue sky.
If there is something larger than life, even un real, about some of the structures that dominate the profiles of cities and towns, there are also those buildings and landmarks that are by their nature and intention their complete opposite. These are modest and inconspicuous structures built with proportion and measured to human scale. Their very charm stems from their simplicity and size, which instills a sense of intimacy with the visitor. These are buildings that the adventurous visitor feels he has discovered on his own meandering about and takes back home as a lived experience. Rather than the collective symbolic image to which large buildings aspire, these buildings form part of our personal memory of a place. They are often the center of smaller concentric neighborhoods or barrios, not the center of an entire city.
| One such site here in San Miguel is the small sanctuary dedicated to Our Lady of Solitude, Nuestra Señora de la Soledad, or Calvario, as it's often called. You have seen this small chapel on your way out of town to Querétaro; it stands high above calle San Francisco.
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The building's first phase of construction dates back to the 18th century (an inscription on the entranceway reads "1730"). Its altar displays an image of the Virgin carved in stone. The façade and vestibule were constructed at the beginning of the 19th century in the neoclassical revival style of the period. Carved into the red "cantera" limestone above the arched entranceway are the symbols of the Passion of Christ, which link the building to the Sanctuary at Atotonilco and its founder, Father Felipe Neri de Alfaro, a devoted mystic, poet and follower of the Cult of the Virgin of Solitude. The building is located on what was formerly the old Camino Real, and it is said to have been an important place of worship, not only for pilgrims on their way to Atotonilco but also for travelers and merchants who offered their prayers to the Virgin before embarking on a long and often dangerous trip to the capital. To the present day, the "Via Crucis" still culminates at this sanctuary on Holy Friday during Semana Santa.
I had the chance to speak with the building's caretaker, Sra. Alicia Quintanar, and she provided some of the historical information on the building. Her family has taken care of this small sanctuary now for several generations, and she is the last in this line. We spoke of a recent car accident that left one of the supporting pillars at the entrance to the building almost completely demolished. She also mentioned that the municipality had sent an engineer to survey the building under former mayor Villareal's administration; however, nothing has been done since.
It would not be an exaggeration to say that the building is in bad disrepair, and I hope that the appropriate care and attention will soon be given to this small historical gem. The renovations that have helped restore many of the churches and monuments here in San Miguel seem to have come to a halt with the recent elections, but I hope the new administration will continue in their endeavors to preserve the cultural patrimony of San Miguel and the nation.
Great buildings, whether large or small, form part of our collective imagination and history. They help shape our sense of place, and therefore our sense of reality. They inhabit us as we do them, marking and giving meaning to space and time. When they vanish, part of ourselves is lost with them. We are their caretakers.
Hooking rugs and hooked on language
By Roger Hind
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Mujeres en Cambio, luncheon, Thursday, August 24, 2pm
Hacienda de las Flores, Hospicio 16, 120 pesos
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The Rug Hook Project of Rancho Agustín González has an English teacher. Since June 23 a student from Oregon Lutheran University has been teaching two classes of English at this ranch 12 miles south of San Miguel. Jessica Hanson, a college senior majoring in Spanish and German, wanted a Spanish immersion experience this summer. Her mother, a rug-hooking enthusiast, had been in touch with Charlotte Bell, who's been involved with promoting and marketing the work of the Rug Hook Project of Agustín Gonzáles for the last six years.
The Rug Hook Project, also know as the Ranchoritas, is comprised of a group of 16 Mexican women who, with the help of Mujeres en Cambio volunteers, have learned the art of rug hooking. Charlotte knew that English would help the women with their sales in San Miguel, and she arranged for Jessica to live with one of the Ranchoritas, Sara Tovar, and her two young sons and to teach English. The young people of the village were also interested in learning, so Jessica created two classes, one for adults and one for children.
She has been living at Agustín González and teaching classes, and for the last month has been studying advanced Spanish at the Instituto. Each day, she rides the bus with the local workers to attend her classes in Spanish and then rushes back to teach two classes in English.
| She has adjusted well to the two-room house where she shares a bedroom with Sara and her sons, Fernando, 5, and Johnnie, 2. She says that since she's been sharing a room at the university for the last three years in the dorms, she's used to a communal bedroom.
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In order to pay for trip expenses, Jessica wrote a letter to friends and family outlining her plans and requesting funding. She was overwhelmed with the response that made it possible for her to cover her expenses.
At the July Mujeres en Cambio luncheon, she brought two of her students. For the first time ever, they introduced themselves in English and thanked the volunteers for their continued support. Tears appeared in many eyes as English was heard for the first time from the mouths of the rancho women.
Leaving Agustín González will not be easy. The village has made Jessica one of their own. Many want her to find a nice Mexican man so she can live there all the time! However, Jessica has other plans for her life. Once she returns to school she will explore with her professors the idea of making such an experience part of summer programs for other students at the university.
Jessica is an extraordinary young woman who has taken on an unusual project and done a great job. She has helped a village and been a fabulous ambassador for the United States.
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Her mom, Barbara, is now in the process of organizing a major rug hooking convention in San Miguel for July 2007. What a family!
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Don't forget the next Mujeres en Cambio lunch on August 24. Tickets are available at Casa de Papel, Mesones 57A; RE/Max, Portal Guadalupe 12 (on the Jardín); and Solutions Mail Service, Recreo 11.
The greening of ALMA
By Lorraine Garay
Creating a park was not what Mary Dinnick and Lorraine Garay had in mind when they visited the residents at ALMA, but that has become their mission. Along the way, they also started other beautification projects, such as painting the exterior walls of the building, hanging lamps and having new cushions made for the patio chairs.
This committee of two discovered that ALMA's patio was a favorite place for the residents to sit, but unfortunately it looked out onto one hectare of unleveled dirt with no plants or trees to beautify it or keep the dust from blowing around on windy days. Lorraine and Mary learned that the original building plans for the residence did include a park, but the cost had been prohibitive and other projects took priority.
The challenge was there, and these two determined ladies decided to undertake it. Before they left ALMA on that first visit, they made a commitment of time and money to launch "Project Green."
Coming up with a plan that would be economically feasible was the first big step. They consulted with staff at Charco del Ingenio about the landscape design. They came away from that meeting with lots of ideas and a variety of cactus plants to get the park started. The Department of Ecology was the next contact. Gerardo Arteaga, the former director of Ecology, pledged his support and made available trees and plants from the city nurseries. This was a great beginning, but many more trees and plants would have to be purchased to make a real park. It was important that the park be designed to consider the special needs of the residents, which meant walkways that could accommodate wheelchairs and walkers, lots of shady areas, benches placed strategically for resting and level ground for safe walking.
Resources had to be found to keep the plan in motion. Lorraine Garay thought this might be a project that her former colleagues in San Miguel real estate would be interested in sponsoring. She made her appeal to the San Miguel AMPI members and got a fast and generous response from Abraham Cadena Real Estate, Allende Properties, Bienes Raices San Miguel, Dotty Vidargas Real Estate, La Margarita Real Estate, Century 21, Atenea Realty and Coldwell Banker Bienes Raices.
To date, support for "Project Green" has come from a variety of sources. Proceeds from a piano concert performed by Nigel Cox were used to augment the cash donations from the AMPI members and individual donors such as Hunter Wilson, Nonie Mulcaster, Janet McCullock and Karen Livingston. Lic. Manuel Garay turned over his machines to prepare the ground for water deposits and planting. Ing. Javier Garay donated 10% of the bricks purchased for the walkways. David Cohen of Productos Herco donated three benches in the memory of his parents. These benches were placed around the beautiful cantera fountain donated by Armando Mendiolo Rivera of Detalle Rustico Mexicano. The Public Works Department donated and installed an additional five benches. The lamps that now grace the patio and hallway were a gift from Hildebrando Anguiano.
The community answered the call from this self-appointed committee of two, and "Project Green" created a park where there was once only dirt and dust. Although there is still work and planting to be done, the senior citizens of ALMA have begun to enjoy the beauty and comfort of a green area that just lay waiting to be created.
San Miguel Sectional I/N Bridge Tournament
| The first-ever San Miguel I/N Sectional Bridge Tournament is in the books and will be remembered as scoring well with local duplicate bridge players. Over 45 tables, 180 players, participated in the three-day event, which was hosted at The Bridge Studio in the Hotel Real D'Minas this past Friday, Saturday and Sunday.
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The sponsoring organization, the American Contract Bridge League, offered Silver points at this event to attract players with fewer than 300 points who aspire to a higher ranking within the organization. Forty-eight players earned almost 100 Silver Master Points right here at home. In addition to points, winners took home blue glass vases from the local Guajuye factory, and lots of calories were consumed. You could see by the faces of some of the winners that the event was fun as well!
The top winners were Al Kocourek and Charles Rutherford, who each earned 6.69 points. Other winners included Edith Bramson, Terry Holden, Marvin Schrager, Irene Pagan, Judy Holden, Charlie Brehm, Judy Rosenthal, Nancy White, John Areias, Malinda Vertiz, Margaret Rowe, Joanna Kester, Ilva Invernizzi, Jeanne Crockett, Miriam and Norm Meyer, Ellen Snyder, Shirley Walls and Alex Alaounis, Suzee MacDougall, Dick Shaffer, Julie Allbritton, David Rowe, Lynne Martins, Dee Ropers, Bobby Norris, Barbara Poole, Michael Pope, Helen Reinecke, Belinda and Russ Lloyd, King and Phyllis Culp, Max Neder, Sally Richman, Sharon Solwitz, Dorothy Glenn, Meredith Glenn, Paco Kalmbach, Harry Wright, Bill and Susan Curra, Harriette Meisel, Judy McKay, Jackie Hall and Judy Arnold.
Boys' refuge seeks funds to improve dorms
| The staff at Mexiquito (Santuario Hogar Guadalupano), the San Miguel boys' refuge, hope to remodel the building's dormitory. In 2005, the kitchen and dining room were extensively remodeled and improved, with impressive results.
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That project was made possible by the kind donations of many residents of San Miguel. The boys, and Sisters, will continue to benefit from the improvements for many years to come.
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The aging dormitory is also suffering from problems, and the need for renovation is particularly felt in the winter. The remodeling would add additional space to relieve overcrowding and provide improved bathroom facilities and a separate infirmary.
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"This project will allow for greater privacy, sanitation and health," said Madre Delfina, Mother Superior of Mexiquito.
Donations of any amount are greatly appreciated and can be made at Border Crossings, Mesones 57. Plans may also be viewed by request at Border Crossings.
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