Rhythms of the Chineca
By Tim Hazell, March 23, 2007


“...ya que seamos hispanos, mexicanos; somos mas indios,” (More than Hispanics or Mexicans, we are Indians)—Agueda Martinez 

 

From remote beginnings shrouded in myths, Mexicans have worshiped nature in a strikingly original way. Mayan legend tells of the first two hummingbirds, created from scraps of feathers that were left behind after other birds had been formed. 


They were married by the god who sculpted them in an elaborate wedding ceremony. Butterflies created the borders of a room. Flower petals spread a carpet beneath them and spiders decorated the bridal pathway with their spun webs. In another, hummingbirds pierced the tongues of kings. When blood flowed onto sacred scrolls and was set aflame divinities emerged from billowing smoke. The following poem, infused with herbs, blooms as a woman’s anatomy and man’s hot blood, personifies genesis and destruction. 



Yes if I touch you here, your breast isn’t sweet basil: but that red flower, hot.

I suffocate. The world is hurling itself down, 

The Magnolias shall grow. 

The roses shall be so coldly big that they’ll drown out all eternal noises. 

Feel the rhythm of the world heart made of chamois. 



Chineca. What a kiss! 

Upon your back, a waterfall of clean water: tells me of your destiny.

Chineca...I wait. 



Franc J. Newcomb and Gladys A. Reichard were able to spend five consecutive summers with a Chanter’s family, six miles north of Grando, Arizona. Miguelito, or “Red Point,” performed the “Shooting Chant,” part of the complex Navajo religion. The Chanter relied on paintings executed, literally “poured” with colored sand on an appointed spot, which grew in a matter of hours to a size of approximately 18' by 15'. The Chanter’s function, similar to the priest’s who supervised the execution of an Egyptian tomb painting, is to check the developing painting for accuracy. Several painters are involved in the design, as well as assistants who grind mineral pigments of various colors for the artists to use. Here is an abridged description taken from the authors’ own words of the process.



“The paintings are a combination of sandstrewing and sculpture, combined with real objects. As he works, the painter completes his design in all the colors necessary and runs his hand through a small portion of natural sand when he wishes to change color. If he makes a mistake, he corrects it by covering it with tan sand, but he need not assume responsibility for the correctness of the painting, for he is instructed by the Chanter. The center may represent water, in which case a bowl of water is actually sunk in the sand, or the painting may be created around a small fire. The medium of the painter allows him to use one color over another, as many as six or eight layers of sand.” 



When comparing folk and native aesthetics to sophisticated or fine art the object, and its conversation with us, has to stand alone. Training in aboriginal cultures was as rigorous and thorough as any to be found in First World academia. Many products of native origin show exceptional creativity and technical skill. Post Impressionist painters and avant garde musicians found new directions and fresh perspectives in old traditions that grew out of the need to control the supernatural world and explain natural phenomena in pre-industrial societies. Composer Manuel María Ponce (1882-1948), born in Zacatecas, Mexico was a close friend of guitarist Andres Segovia and wrote almost exclusively for him. His other works include orchestral, chamber music and popular songs. I’d like to conclude with this recipe named after him. It is redolent of the rich flavors of Mexican colonial and native cuisine.



Pollo Ponce (Chicken in Red Chile Sauce)

20 dried Guajillo and/or Ancho Chile pods 

3-4 lbs boneless chicken thighs, browned

6 cups chicken or vegetable broth

6 cloves garlic, minced

2 tsp oregano

1 tsp cayenne

Salt and black pepper to taste

3-4 tbs olive oil



Roast the chiles lightly in a frying pan until they soften slightly, taking care not to burn them. Remove all stems, seeds, and veins. Break them up into pieces and simmer in the chicken broth along with the garlic, oregano and cayenne, for 40-45 minutes. Blend chiles and broth in blender a little at a time. Pour the sauce through a sieve into a bowl. Mash chile pieces against the sieve with a spoon to extract the liquid, then discard the pulp. Bring the liquid to the boil in a saucepan, lower the heat and simmer until the chile sauce is reduced by a third. Add salt and pepper to taste. Sprinkle the chicken thighs with salt and black pepper, then sauté in olive oil in an oven-safe baking dish or casserole 7 to 8 minutes until browned. Pour the chile sauce over the chicken. Cover and bake at 325° for one-and-a-half hours. Remove from the oven and serve in the casserole or transfer to a serving platter with the sauce on the side. Tortillas and traditional garnishes such as onions, cabbage, coriander, sour cream 
and extra chiles go well with this dish. Excellent with ice-cold Mexican beer. Serves 5 to 6 people.

Pollo Ponce is delicious and simple to prepare. It has a robust and hearty character without being overpowering despite the number of chiles. For vegetarians, prepare the sauce by itself, using a good vegetable broth. Serve over tofu, mixed vegetables, potatoes or rice.