Cultural Perspectives
By Tim Hazell (July 14, 2006)


Coconuts for Mean Molly
“Coconut trees can do everything ... now I’ve had coconut oil in my car engine for four months.”


—Kitti Manneesrikul, school teacher and coconut farmer
Navigators of consummate skill manned sailing fleets vying for control of the incense and spice trade during the era of expanding transoceanic voyages. Clans of Arab merchants, such as the Nabataeans of the Middle East, were renowned for their artfulness in legal and illicit commodities exchange. Dryland hubs for their enterprises lay concealed in the desert, maintained by secret water collecting systems. Goods from the Far East, status symbols for wealthy Europeans, reached northern shores by the cargo load, a flood that widened and deepened as cities grew prosperous and magnates had coins to spend on luxuries. Rare botanicals, such as the pineapple, were subjects for analysis and classification and had appeared as illustrations in print by the 16th century.

The coconut is an enigma among exotics, because its origins are not clearly understood. It may have been a native of tropical New World flora; its pods are frequently swept up by tides to drift for thousands of miles upon ocean swells. In this manner, the fruits may have washed up on Pacific atolls. This viewpoint, held by some botanists, is widely challenged. Although there were sporadic accounts by invading Spaniards of its presence on the west coast of the Isthmus of Panama, its cultivation had occurred in Asia and Africa centuries prior to this. Oriental poetry and prose extolled its culinary usefulness, as well as cosmetic virtues. When they could afford to indulge, sixth-century Egyptians coveted coconut meat and milk.

Marco Polo recorded his observations of its presence along the Silk Road. The seafaring Portuguese, who contributed much to traders’ languages, dubbed the large husk with its hidden trove of rich flesh and sweet water “coco,” their children’s term for a grinning face, and “nut” from English terminology. The cultivation of the coconut palm may have been a gradual development from accidental propagation to obvious benefits as a staple crop. Polished and gold-mounted shells were cherished items until the fruit became common with the introduction of more efficient transport. 

Domestication of the coconut is a mirror of history for Island, Asian and African civilizations. The diversity of this ancient and revered seed and human interaction is a combination of natural distribution, selection and reproductive biology. Types of palms most adapted to specific environments were singled out through a process of rustic science, leading to the development of techniques for improving production characteristics. Streamlining by local populations through careful observation resulted in well-adapted ecotypes. Every part of the coconut palm has a potential use. The fruit (coconut water, coconut meat, shell and fibers), the husk, the leaves, trunk, sheath and the roots provide edible and inedible commodities, consumed or utilized locally and imported to centers for processing as manufactured goods. 

A survey of early American cookbooks confirms that fresh coconuts were readily available, supplied by reliable vessels from the West Indies. Here is a traditional recipe from Malaga, a dish dubbed “Mean Molly,” for fish cooked in a rich bath of coconut milk, fresh herbs, chile and spice. This hybrid of native cookery and traders’ influence may have found its way to our kitchens via the East and Carib trade highway. Chicken breast or shrimp may be substituted. 


Mean Molly (Fish in Coconut Milk Curry)

Marinade: 2 tsp. turmeric lime juice good pinch of sea salt 1-1/2 pounds baby shark or other firm fish fillets, cut into bite-size portions

Base:
one medium onion, thinly sliced
1-1/2 inch piece of ginger, peeled and finely shredded
5 cloves garlic, sliced
1/4 cup fresh chopped cilantro a few curry or lime leaves
1 or 2 green chiles, seeded and slit into quarters
2 tsp. turmeric
2 tsp. cumin seeds
1 tsp. sugar
pinch of salt and black pepper
best quality oil for frying
2 cups dried, shredded or granulated unsweetened coconut


Place coconut in a mixing bowl. Bring 4 cups of water to a boil and add to bowl. Cover and let stand until cool. Squeeze out the pulp with your fingers to extract as much of the milk as possible and strain liquid through a colander. Discard pulp and reserve milk extract.

Combine fish, turmeric, lime juice and salt in a bowl. Refrigerate and allow to marinate 30 minutes or longer. Remove and set aside. Heat oil for cooking in a large frying pan. Add cumin seeds and allow them to brown on medium heat. Add onions, garlic and ginger shreds, chiles, turmeric, curry or lime leaves, if available, and continue to sauté, stirring, until transparent. Add salt, black pepper, and chopped cilantro. Continue to cook slowly, stirring, until ingredients are an even, golden brown. The mixture will become very aromatic at this stage. Pour in the coconut milk, bring to a boil, and reduce contents of the pan to approximately half. Gently stir in the baby shark and combine with the other ingredients. A little lime juice may be added at this stage, taking care not to curdle the liquid. Continue cooking about 5 to 7 minutes, stirring occasionally until done. 

Serve this dish with a side vegetable, such as peas and plain rice, preferably basmati. An exotic and subtle dish, Mean Molly is a flavorful way to prepare fish without masking its delicate bouquet. The richness of the coconut milk imparts a silky consistency to the curry, adding body and unctuous consistency with none of the heavy characteristics of cream.

Tim Hazell is a multidisciplinary artist in the areas of painting, music, theater, education, writing and research, specializing in Latin America. He may be contacted at hazel@unisono.net.mx or at his website, www.timhazell.com.