Cultural Perspectives
By Tim Hazell, Aug 25, 2006

Pavane for the rainy season

Everest is a huge black rock during the monsoon in Nepal, and it is situated as far south as the tip of Florida. Snows return to the high chaparral of the Himalayas in winter, but now the trails leading to the hills are infested, muddy and difficult to traverse. Here, in the season for planting rice, the Newar farmers of Kathmandu Valley will complete their work before the festival of Ghantakarna, bane of serpents, the first celebration of the rainy season to come. After seven weeks in the inundated fields when only rice plantation songs are sung, musical instruments can accompany the ceremonies once again. Labor is worship, sweat, philosophy and sometimes fun. The monsoon arrives from the Bay of Bengal. At dawn, the sun wounds the hills and peaks with slashes of orange and red. The people of Nepal are ruled by a government of weather. 

The Nepalese are energetic and cheerful, spiritually complex, yet fond of simple things. The ornate, almost decadent characteristics of Asian religions-with their pantheons of gods and gilt Buddhas-contrast with pious rituals of austerity and purification. These underscore the rhythms of the tender green places nestled at the foothills of the Himalayan chain-the sound of distant hammers and bells, work continuing. In the lowlands, the moist and yielding jungle surrounds, smelling of jasmine and overripe fruit, swaying like a dancing harem. The hamlets and terraced fields are shrouded in mist on cold, clear mornings, dissolved by temperate winds. Under the enormous moon and canopy of smoking stars, ancient palaces and monasteries fill with silence. Labyrinths of shadows extend to an ink of dripping vegetation. Lights from the firmament enter the colonnades, permeating rooms and streaking the saffron-colored robes of the monks. What more could one ask for? If the populace outside comes knocking, they may worsh
ip and leave offerings of small gifts behind. They might spin a prayer wheel or burn a stick of incense. They will not have come in tears. 

In Kathmandu, the hottest month is May, just before the start of the monsoon. Mosquitoes scream and wind their tiny springs. In the trekkers hostel, spiders touch each other, blind and shaking on the ceiling. Indolent fans rotate throughout the tropical night, their blades stirring a thick, fragrant gumbo of air. It is a time of sudden storms. Water pools here and there on flagstones and ruts where the ground is bare. Herds of snails leave their slow trysts to graze, docile as cattle, on moist seeds that the sparrows left behind. Rains are descending early. To brighten a season of torrents in Mexico that will engender abundant harvests, here is a zesty Nepalese marinade for chicken or fish. Bold and aromatic black peppercorns and lots of pungent garlic bring out the earth accents and robust flavors of Mexico's organic poultry and fish. 

Black Peppercorn Garlic Paste for Chicken (or fish)

Marinade:

1 tablespoon black peppercorns

1 teaspoon coarse salt

5 large cloves garlic

1/4 cup chopped coriander

3 tablespoons olive oil



One chicken, about 3 lbs., skin removed and cut into serving pieces, or 1½ lbs. firm white fish fillets or steaks


Combine the marinade ingredients in a food processor, molcajete or with a mortar and pestle until they are reduced to a coarse paste. If using a food processor, take care to pulse until ingredients are just reduced but still retain a little texture. Make small slits in the meat of the chicken breast, drumsticks and thighs. Place the chicken pieces in a mixing bowl. Rub the coarse spice and herb mixture into the meat with the fingers, working the paste into the cuts. Cover and allow to marinate in the refrigerator for at least two hours or overnight. Remove and arrange chicken parts or fish fillets in a large baking dish in one layer. Reserve any extra marinade ingredients for an accompanying sauce, if desired. Drizzle a little olive oil over the meat. Preheat the oven to 375 degrees and bake the chicken until tender, about one hour, reducing the heat to 350 degrees if it browns too quickly. Fish can be pan-fried about five minutes per side until done or baked about 10 minutes. The marinated chicken can be rem
oved from the oven after one half hour and placed on a hot charcoal grill, if desired. If using fish, transfer directly to the barbeque without prior cooking. This method imparts a succulent charcoal flavor to the chicken or fish and would have been the traditional way to prepare this recipe.

Serve with plain boiled rice and a side dish of vegetables of choice. Green beans or snow peas cooked until tender and tossed with a little olive oil make an excellent accompaniment. Serves four. Accompany with cold, dry white wine or beer.

Tim Hazell is a multidisciplinary artist in the areas of painting, music, theater, education, writing and research, specializing in Latin America. He may be contacted at hazel@unisono.net.mx  or at his website, www.timhazell.com