The Dinner Goddess

Fresh peaches for the summertime
By Lila Shaw Lash, July 06, 2007

Certain things in this world just taste or smell like summer—a perfect caprese salad with homegrown tomatoes and basil, the smell of charcoal smoke and cooking meat, and of course, a basket of fresh, locally grown peaches.

Here in Mexico, they are called duraznos and are currently available in the local fruit and vegetable shops around town and with vendors on the streets.

If you are someone who’s been spoiled by a truly luscious, sweet peach, it is a requirement that you wait until summer to get what you’re craving. They can be available during other seasons of the year, but what you are able to buy in January or February just won’t cut it. Being from Texas myself, I have tremendous childhood memories of passing through the hallowed peach country between Stonewall and Fredericksburg on the way to visit my grandparents in the Hill Country, and buying a half bushel for my grandfather’s famous peach ice cream. Now, those peaches will literally blow your mind, and I can’t really make the same claim about the ones available locally around San Miguel, but the local ones do have their own special qualities to explore. Either sweet or savory, I plan on using them both ways over the next few months for my clients and friends.

I prefer buying them by the kilo from the local farmers selling them on the streets. You’ll see the men and women walking around with deep woven baskets, holding prepackaged bags for your perusal, so flag them down. These are not freestone peaches, so you have to take special care when cutting flesh from the pit. I like to do a clean cut around the circumference, then twist each half in opposition until the flesh lets go of the pit—without mushing the peach to death in your hands!

Local peaches are well-suited to a simple syrup-based preparation, to bring out the natural sweetness that may be a bit lacking. A peach recipe I’ve grown quite fond of is peaches in a ginger/white wine syrup. You simply slice the peaches, toss them with a bit of lemon juice; then make a syrup with equal parts dry white wine, sugar and water, and grated ginger to your personal taste. Simmer this until it’s reduced by half, then strain it over your already sliced and macerated peaches, and you’re ready for an easy summertime dessert. Add some ice cream from Santa Clara or Ambrosia and you’re ready for company. I’ve made French-style galettes for my clients with fresh peaches and apricots, and then had a repeat performance demanded.

On the other end of the palatespectrum, I’d also like to promote one of my personal favorites—peaches prepared in a savory way. A simple peach-avocado salsa is just the ticket. I would recommend dicing your peaches of choice, throwing them in a bowl with some chopped red onion, cubed avocado, chopped chiles de manzana (the earthiness of this local option is very similar to habaneros), fresh cilantro, and plenty of freshly squeezed lime. Give everything a good toss and let it sit at room temperature for at least 30 minutes, so the flavors meld. If you feel like going the extra mile, you could brush some honey on your halved peaches, and grill them before dicing them for the salsa. Sensational! Either version is perfect with grilled pork or fish, but will work with just about anything you feel like putting it on.

So for me, peaches just taste like pure summertime. I encourage you to step out your door, flag down your closest peach vendor, buy a couple kilos, and start experimenting. You’ll have heaven any way you slice it.

Lila Shaw Lash is a personal chef involved with The Dinner Goddess, a weekly dinner delivery and catering service for clients in San Miguel de Allende. For more information, write to lila@dinnergoddess.com  or visit www.dinnergoddess.com.