Let’s head to the country!
By Lila Shaw Lash

Being from Austin, I am absolutely in love with the weekly ritual of my local farmer’s market—(M)buying things picked fresh from the earth, buying things that are grown locally and seasonally, buying things that are organic is just so satisfying. Being in San Miguel, I enjoy stopping by Bioagrimex on Saturdays, but what really gets me going is heading to Rancho La Trinidad near San Miguel Viejo to pick my own produce. If you haven’t been, find the friend with transportation, make them an offer they can’t refuse and head past the railroad tracks—(M)you won’t regret it.

My most recent trip took me out that direction with my mother and another longtime friend from Austin. We drove towards San Miguel Viejo, then followed the cobblestone street across the railroad tracks, took a right at the fork in the road and looked for the entrance on the right—(M)Rancho La Trinidad.

The uncultivated land was bought in 1983 by Carl from Santa Barbara, California, and within a year Rancho La Trinidad was supplying organic produce to El Tomate. The other side of the business is supplying fresh produce for export to the US and Canada under the brand name Monarch Organic. The business manages 280 hectares all over Mexico, mostly in supported production of cucumbers destined for pickle jars. Currently, the farm is not officially retailing to any stores here in town, but many restaurants make the trek to buy their produce (Hecho in Mexico’s lovely salads were mentioned) and all of us are welcome to head out and shop to our heart’s content.

On this most recent trip, I had a chance to chat with Carl’s wife, Christina Lanuza, about the operation. The land covers about three hectares, and it’s slowly and lovingly been cultivated into a little piece of organic foodie heaven. Much to my surprise, organic suppliers add only a 20 percent premium over the market value for conventional produce—(M)a much more competitive price when compared to the US practice. Christina and Carl hope to one day sell seedlings to help us all get our kitchen gardens started, maybe with basil, fennel, dill, parsley and a chile or two. Sounds like a fantastic plan to me.


Paulita, the forewoman for the last 12 years, was my picking companion, she with her scissors and me with my wide-eyed appetite. We wandered around picking beets for my next dinner party job, enough fresh basil for a few pints of pesto, armfuls of purple kale and dinosaur kale, fennel bulbs that the black labs wouldn’t let go of and plenty of fresh mixed salad greens. Enough to feed my neighborhood really, and I couldn’t have been happier. I didn’t even get to the zucchini, pumpkin, collard greens, spinach, sweet corn, fresh chiles, green beans or spaghetti squash. Next trip. You can check out what’s already picked in the farm’s tiendita, or Paulita can pull things from the fields, Monday to Friday 7am–(N)3pm, Saturday 7am–(N)11am. Paulita can be reached for questions or special requests at 415-111-7894.

This trip inspired me to bust out my food processor, stop by Luna de Queso and get fresh parmesan, and make some homemade pesto. A couple cups of freshly picked basil, along with a half cup of your favorite nuts (pine nuts are preferred, but pecans or walnuts will work), a half cup of freshly grated parmesan cheese (get Mariana to help you at Luna de Queso), a few garlic cloves, process to a chunky mixture, then stream in about 2/3 cup of good-quality olive oil—voíla, basil pesto. This freezes extremely well, and was always the August ritual at my family’s home in Texas when the basil plants were becoming unruly.

It’s time to head to the country, pack your empty bolsitas, and bring your appetite, because, my friends, the Rancho is waiting.

Lila Shaw Lash is a personal chef involved with The Dinner Goddess, a weekly dinner delivery and catering service for clients in San Miguel de Allende. For more information, write to lila@dinnergoddess.com or visit www.dinnergoddess.com.