The art of the rebozo
By Judy Fink

Art Opening Cecilia Bautista Caballero Mon, Aug 27, 6–8pm Wine reception Mariposa Gallery Recreo 36

On August 27, sanmiguelenses have a rare opportunity to meet one of the finest weavers in Mexico. Her awards include both state and national recognition, grand prizes in the United States and most recently in Caracas, Venezuela, where she not only represented Mexico, but was awarded the grand prize for her feather rebozos (shawls).

Cecilia Bautista Caballero is a recognized grandmaster of the rebozo. She is a dignified Purupecha woman from the state of Michoacán who has been weaving since she was 15 years old and now continues the tradition and preservation of the art through her daughters. From the maestra they learn age-old dyeing techniques employing plants and flowers, threading the back strap loom and tying off the fringe into magnificent puntas. Traditional rebozos are still made, plus beautiful multicolored pieces of art, many puntas finished with a grand array of feathers—her unique touch. Her proudest pieces take months to create and are made entirely of Egyptian cotton with thread dyed in natural colors.

The rebozos are woven so tightly it is hard to believe they are made by hand. When I first met Sra. Bautista, I asked her daughter if my shawl had been made by her mother. She pulled it tightly and then replied with full confidence, “Yes, it is my mother’s.

The rebozo has been part of Mexican society since the Spanish women arrived in the 1500s. However, native women were forbidden to wear the beautiful and elegant silk shawls worn by the privileged, high-society Spanish women. The shawls were admired and coveted and it was not long before the ever-creative, indigenous women and men began their own creations. Along with the traditional use as elegant clothing, indigenous weavers use them as baby carriers, coats, shrouds and fiesta-wear. The rebozo became a symbol of status and tradition, each village with its own personal expression displayed in the style of wear, weave and color.

The weavers themselves were an integral and important part of their village, supplying wives, mothers and grandmothers with this symbol of Mexican womanhood. As their expertise grew, the weavers created more elaborate and unique pieces. Shawls were made to last a lifetime and the beauty and quality of a woman’s rebozo often signified her place in society and the respect her husband showed her in the value of the shawl.

Women were recognized as a group by their similar rebozos. For instance, blue-striped rebozos are the traditional and proud symbol of the Purupecha women of Michoacán.

Several important weaving centers are easy to visit and about two hours by car. Santa Maria del Rio in the state of San Luis Potosi has long been famous for silk rebozos. They are easily recognizable by their vibrant colors and finely knotted threads making up the fringe end of the shawl. Tenencingo in the state of Mexico is also a mecca of traditional weaving. In both communities, more than one person may work on the rebozo—dyeing, threading the loom, weaving and finally tying off the fringe. Designs created within the fringe areas are complicated and time consuming. One shawl can take up to three months. 

Shawls also are made on a large commercial level on foot looms in Moreleon. Men work the foot looms and women generally tie off the small fringe. These shawls are normally cotton and inexpensive, sold in many local tiendas.

Rebozos are sold not only in Mexico, but are exported to Japan, Germany, Spain and Latin America. Unfortunately, few find their way to the US. It appears that this important women’s work is often undervalued and misunderstood. Without easy access to the product, most American women do not have the opportunity to enjoy or appreciate the value of owning and wearing this beautiful and feminine piece of art. But those of us who live in Mexico appreciate the artist, the work of women who support their families, and the fine, creative and time-consuming beauty of a handmade rebozo in this age-old tradition.

There is a great concern that the entire community of hand-weaving in Mexico is becoming a lost art. Indigenous clothes are disappearing and will soon be part of history. Not only will their beauty and accompanying tradition be forgotten, except in photographs, but the result will be a serious loss of cultural identity.

It is an honor to host this famous weaver at Ilse Sheffield’s Gallery Mariposa. Sra. Bautista will be accompanied by her daughter-in-law, Vesta Estrada Huipe, also a fine and traditional weaver. They will be exhibiting shawls and demonstrating the tedious and creative task of tying off the punta or point of the shawl.

Help keep the tradition alive and welcome Maestra Cecilia Bautista Caballero to San Miguel de Allende.