En la cocina… Fernando Guarneros, chef at Lolita
By Jade Arroyo
Lolita is a sophisticated, traditional Mexican restaurant. It is named after the owner’s grandmother, who used to cook the same dishes the restaurant offers now for her large family back in the 1940s. She is like a mythological character in the family history, famous for her cooking skill and the delightful recipes she created
The style of cuisine combines Lolita’s recipes along with traditional old-school Mexican dishes and some modern interpretations of them, among them the elaborate and almost unpronounceable huauzontles en salsa de chile pasilla, or the guava mixiote for dessert.
The young chef, Fernando Guarneros, shared with Atención an original recipe, grouper (mero) in mango sauce. The recipe combines elements from different regions and styles; the fish is from the Caribbean, the mango is Asian and the three types of chillies come from different areas. The result is a fresh and vibrant flavor, ideal for summer.
This restaurant offers indoor dining or a terrace, perfect to enjoy the summer nights.
Lolita is located a few minutes from Centro, at Salida a Celaya 52. Open starting at 9am, Lolita offers a large variety of options and full bar service. Live music is performed on weekends.
Grouper with chilli crust and mango sauce
4 mero or huachinango (red snapper) fillets
3 dried chile ancho
3 dried chile guajillo
3 dried chile chipotle
3 tablespoons chopped parsley
½ cup olive oil
Salt and pepper
2 ½ cups mango pulp
chiles de árbol
1 teaspoon chopped ginger
1/3 cup of water
2 tablespoons apple cider vinegar
Salt and pepper
Mero can be purchase fresh or frozen at local fish markets or supermarkets.
Marinate the fish in the olive oil and parsley for two hours. Roast the chillies in a dry pan and afterward remove the seeds and veins, then grind them all together in a food processor or spice mill to create a powder.
Season the fish fillets with salt and pepper and then coat them with chilli powder. Cook in a hot pan with olive oil, four minutes on each side.
For the sauce, purée all the sauce ingredients in a blender, then season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve the fish topped with the sauce. As side dishes, consider grilled vegetables and wild rice.